We tossed and turned throughout the night, cocooned in sleeping bags, covered head to toe in thermals and woollen beanies. It was freezing in the isolated, rustic ‘Entkraal’. The incessant sound of the percussive rain on the tin roof was deafening, interspersed only with our hiking companions’ rhythmic snores. The rivers were in spate after weeks of welcome rain. Was the wet hike we had just endured and this seemingly endless nocturnal downpour a prelude to impassable rivers, an enforced lock-in and rationing of fire-wood and whisky?
Fellow Daisies, you may think that the above is rather dramatic, perhaps overly sensational. You may even wonder if we had finally gotten in over our heads. Fear not, we arrived safely back from our 95km, 5 day, epic hike through the wilderness, and with enough energy to ‘tell’ the tale ;). What follows is an account of our experiences on the Baviaans Camino, and can be found in this month’s Skyways (Airlink’s in-flight magazine) in full glossy splendour (thank you Bruce!).
Digging Deep
The last two days had been challenging. We had hiked over 50 km, conquered at least four mountains and experienced all the seasons mother nature could summon. Each one of our small group of women, ranging in age from the late forties to mid-seventies, had begun to question their motivation for signing up, wondering if they were ‘up for the challenge’. We had all disbelievingly asked our guide, multiple times, whether we were really going over that mountain peak (the one over there, far, far away). Her slow, ever-patient nod and encouraging smile was often met with incredulous eyes.
The adventure had started gently in the quaint town of Willowmore, the mohair capital of the Karoo. We convened with our fellow hikers at the Willow Historical Guesthouse, a centuries-old grande dame of a building, crammed full of fascinating antiques and memorabilia from bygone days. Surrounded by a motley pack of dogs, we sat around a roaring fire in the hearth of the hotel’s pub and were briefed on what to expect for the next four days and 95 km (the word ‘hectic’ came up more than once).
The hike kicked off with a jaw dropping 4 km ascent on a gravelly pass – with one section appropriately named ‘Ambulance Hill’. Focussing on our footsteps, we climbed higher and higher, our guide keeping a watchful eye out for any signs of altitude sickness. What waited for us on top of that mountain, far away from the rest of the world, was truly breath-taking and we soon forgot our aching muscles and marvelled at the sights ahead.
Floral Kaleidoscope
Although the rain had brought forth a few grumbles and soggy socks from us, the veld had had no such complaints, and we were incredibly fortunate to witness its post-drought floral bonanza. The most magnificent blooms and hues cloaked the mountains – a unique moment in the fabric of this ancient landscape.
The Baviaans Camino, nestled inside the Baviaanskloof Mega Reserve (a World Heritage Site), showcases seven of South Africa’s eight biomes and is unparalleled in floral and faunal diversity and endemism. It boasts an impressive plethora of species; proteas, succulents and ericas, all beautiful and perfect in their natural surroundings. Each mountain and valley reveals a unique botanical treasure, from Wagon Trees, Willowmore Cedars and Cycads to the appropriately named Shepherd’s Tree. The pure joy one feels surrounded by such mind-boggling beauty is quite exhilarating.
Back at the never-ending rainy night at ‘Entkraal’, the mere thought of missing even one day of this amazing experience was just unbearable. And then, on cue, a lone bird starts to sing in the hazy post-rain dawn. The mountain gods had decreed in our favour, the sun came out and our journey could resume.
Healing Hearth
Nearing the foothills of the Kouga mountains the path becomes less challenging, yet we still had to come across another person or vehicle. Our guide jokingly told us we would end our day with a meander through a garden. Given the wilderness we had traversed, it was hard to fathom such a thing. Little did we know that this landscape breeds creativity, not to mention a fair dose of resilience.
Scaling a fence, we descend through an incredible indigenous garden, carefully laid out by the owner, a maverick, petite and remarkable woman known to tend the mountainsides barefoot in a dress. Below us, nestled in a deep valley is a lush, bucolic, green haven with idyllic farmhouses, a towering orchard of pecan trees, fluffy dots of sheep and a babbling stream winding through the fields. The sight is a healing balm to us weary hikers. It feels as if all the journeys before had led us to this, the heart of the Baviaans Camino. Mooigedacht welcomes us with warmth and graciousness. A fire is blazing in the hearth, an amazing lunch has been prepared and a delicious sampling of the local organic honeybush tea awaits. Heaven.
Every meal on the Camino becomes a special occasion. The tables always look inviting, bursting with delicious seasonal produce and decorated with wildflowers in jam jars. Dinners are provided by the local farmers. So much thought and care goes into presenting their best or newly mastered recipes. Every night we ‘kuiered’ around the fire, hikers and locals, enjoying each other’s company.
The Baviaanskloof region is remote, sparsely populated and only accessible by the toughest vehicles. Those who call this place home have made a conscious decision to surround themselves with mountain peaks, winding river valleys and crisp, clean air. They are generous and kind, willing to open their homes and hearts to strangely clad hikers and make new friends from different walks of life. It is a world far removed from our high city walls and estranged neighbours. Sitting in the glow of the fire, with a full belly and warming drink, we listen to stories of how the community pulled together in miraculous scenarios to help and protect each other. Here in the mountains, a neighbour may be 10kms away, but sleeps safe in the knowledge that in an emergency, help is but a phone-call away.
Pilgrimage Path
We reminisce about our earlier adventures and voice regret at having to re-enter our ‘normal’ lives as we bid farewell to our new friends and walk towards our final night’s accommodation. What had begun as a purely physical experience had evolved into a much more complex, primal and philosophical journey. The Baviaans Camino walked the paths of our forefathers, and in experiencing a taste of their lives, their landscape, hopes and dreams, we too were touched by the ancient wisdom of this wilderness and its inhabitants. We walk now with their spirit within us.
If you are keen to embark on your own pilgrimage in the Baviaanskloof, contact Esti and she’ll help plan your adventure.