Just Property Celebrates the Soul of St Francis Bay
A fresh and innovative gathering in St Francis Bay. Offering good food. Supporting a good cause. Providing an excuse to mingle on a week night … and did we mention the welcoming G&Ts on arrival?
Just Property’s Wellness Event earlier this month ticked all of our boxes and did not disappoint. We caught up with the creative force behind this occasion, Meg Holden, to get the full story.
What an incredible turn out at the Wellness Event in St Francis Bay! The evening was hosted and inspired by Just Property Lifestyle, in aid of Spay it Forward – and we managed to raise well over R8000. Megan
Spay it Forward’s team have successfully sterilised over 1600 cats and dogs since they opened their doors 4 years ago. Their aim is to “raise funds to enable the sterilisation of dogs, cats, strays, ferals and to assist pet owners living on a limited income”. Visit their book sale at the morning market each month, and in the village – contact Pauline Hardy (084 789 7801) or Carmen Stevens (082 775 0122) if you are keen to get involved.
DD: So what was the event all about?
Megan: This specific event was aimed at all of the newbies in town, and the community as a whole, to get to know how many activities are offered in SFB and its surrounds. We wanted to be able to identify all of the different clubs and associations – so that people can join in, make friends and have fun. In spite of the chilly evening the event was humming with well over 100 guests and speakers!
Megan: We would like to thank each volunteer who spoke about all the tremendous activities offered in our town. The crowd was blown away by how many clubs, societies etc there are available to join! Most of us who attended didn’t realise how much was going on in the area.
This is also just a reminder that many drops make an ocean. We are all part of this town and we can all contribute positively!
So now there really are no excuses to sit at home, unsure what to do … join the birding, cycling, knitting, running, bridge, friends, naughty nautical, rotary clubs, just to name a few! The best part is that at least 15 other clubs and associations couldn’t attend – so when we do this again, we will have a whole new array of even more initiatives to join or support. If you would like to get involved in the next event, and share your club or association, just drop us a line on +27 76 699 9866
Megan: We would like to say a huge thanks to Dr Lana Pepler from DeNude who spoke about the benefits of detoxing; Nick from 22 Eatery for his healthy cooking demo, Liza Lippstreau from Body Roll, Steph Arndt Ernstein from the St Francis Bay Running Club and last but not least, the incredible Pauline Hardy and her formidable team who do the most incredible work to spay cats and dogs in the Kouga Region.
Matt Davies supplied the crowd with his delicious venison burgers (they were a sell out!) and Fitch & Leedes kept the crowd hydrated with their delicious welcoming drinks.
Events don’t just happen – the organisers of this event, all of the members of the Just Property Lifestyle Team, worked relentlessly to ensure it ran smoothly.
The Net Ninjas Score an Ace
Picture if you will, a beautiful spring Sunday in St Francis Bay. The sun is warming the air and you are enjoying a stroll. You happen to walk past the St Francis Bay Tennis Club. The rhythmic sound of ball hitting racket filters through the shrubbery. The grunt of effort, intermingled with the jubilant shout of success drifts over the hedge. Laughter. The clapping of hands from appreciative spectators rises above the other sounds. Interest is piqued, and curiosity leads you up the pathway to the clubhouse to investigate. It is alive with activity and good energy. Welcome to the inaugural Sea Vista Community Umbrella Tennis Tournament.
This is not like any other tennis tournament though. The competitors, all young girls (bar one brave boy) only began their tennis careers a mere four months ago. None of them had held a tennis racquet, let alone played a tennis match on a court, at the start of this year. What you see in front of you is astounding and noteworthy in today’s cynical, jaded society. It is what happens when the stars align and send a meteor to sprinkle a little moon dust over the court. Joking aside, it is what happens when determination to move out of one’s comfort zone (the Net Ninjas) meets a group of people with the time and energy to make things happen (the dedicated Community Umbrella ‘angels’), meets two young, humble men who care and want to make a difference (Noah and Lollie, the coaches), meets the generous citizens of St Francis Bay (the tournament sponsors and St Francis Bay Tennis Club).
DuneDaisies were honoured to be invited to check out the excitement and talk to some of the players – on and off the court. The coaches, Noah and Lolly were full of praise for the girls and super impressed with their perseverance and talent, not to mention amazed to witness the knock on benefits of their all round self development.
I’ve seen a 100% change in the girls since they began their tennis coaching. They are more social, they feel good about learning a new skill and they have really bonded well as a group. Coach Lollie
With the help of Stella and all of the amazing sponsors the tournament has come together better than I could ever imagine. I think that the girls’ sportsmanship and attitudes are remarkable – that is one of the highlights for me. And also seeing how far they’ve come, how well they are playing competitively. I’m just so proud of them.
Coaching the girls has impacted my life in a huge way. We’re now family and I love being able to teach them and have a positive effect on their lives. Our aim going forwards is to get the girls proper tennis kits, keep practicing and then play matches against other schools, clubs and tennis groups. Coach Noah
I like my granddaughter to play tennis as she gains respect through the sport and her mind has become open to future possibilities. She has changed through the tennis coaching – she has better manners, keeps time better and is a happier girl. Noah is wonderful. He gives the girls lifts to and from the court. We all really appreciate him. He’s doing a great job. Thank you for helping our children! Cynthia (Buli’s grandmother)
As the last tennis ball whizzes over the net and the scores are tallied, it is time for the much anticipated prize giving. The St Francis business community and individuals have dug deep and ensured that these girls are truly celebrated in style. First prize is a luxury canal trip for 4, courtesy of Captain Kev. Other winners receive gifts & vouchers from the St Francis Brewing Co., Bruces Ocean Museum Cafe, Full Stop Cafe, Shakti Shanti, Absolutely Water, Super Spar and the Kitchen, as well as prize money from Dawn Watt and Hixonia Nyasulu.
Noah, Lollie and the Net Ninjas would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who has helped so far; from the donations of tennis rackets and balls, to the St Francis Bay Tennis Club for allowing the twice weekly practices to take place, as well as hosting this inaugural event. A variety of family and friends were roped in to umpire, score and judge on the day, and Brad Peens took the awesome pictures for this blog. Stella sourced the prizes and added her magic wand to the proceedings – a huge thank you to you all!
The Net Ninjas will never forget their inaugural tennis tournament. The day that they realised they are champions, both on and off the courts.
Hiking the Leopard Trail
If ever you have a chance to spend a little time in the Baviaanskloof, you should leap at it. It’s the ultimate destination to switch off from the rest of the world and feel enfolded by nature. Besides a quirky treehouse, cave dwellings, khoi-khoi paintings, and Vero’s roosterbrood, there is the increasingly popular Leopard Trail.
The trail is a four-day/ three-night hike that traverses hills, valleys, mountain tops, rocky bits, scrubby flat terrain and lush garden-like paths – each with its own selection of fabulous fynbos and indigenous greenery. You will feel all the elements in one day – prepare to be blitzed by a howling wind and moments later bathed in sunlight in a tranquil and protected corner. You will climb to the peak of a mountain (in my case, on all fours), walk over undulating hills, shuffle down sides of mountains, meander through grassy plains and hop across streams on stepping stones.
It’s simply glorious.
So, read on if you’d like to find out more about what to expect on the Leopard Trail.
When to hike the Leopard Trail?
A group of us recently did this trail together (August, 2024) and had an absolute blast. The advantage of doing it in the winter months was that we experienced the full beauty of the fynbos. The proteas were in bloom, the buchu fragrant and we were mostly surrounded by greenery. In summer, while you can take advantage of the streams and pools to cool off, the vegetation might not be as lush. A winter hike also means that you can sleep later and spend the day hiking – not rushing to avoid the midday sun. Don’t get me started on the winter sky….
Slack-Packing
For those who don’t fancy carrying a heavy backpack, the Leopard Trail is perfect. Each person gets assigned a box that they can fill with all their stuff (food, clothing, sleeping bag etc). The boxes magically appear at the appropriate camp in the afternoon – no schlepping required.
A word on packing:
Ladies, pack like a dude. You don’t need any of the extra stuff – keep it simple: good socks and trail shoes, hiking clothes plus comfy clothes and shoes for the evening.
Dudes, don’t forget jackets and jammies.
The Three Leopard Trail Camps:
The Sleeping Huts
Each camp has three wooden huts with two bunkbeds in each hut (earplugs are a must unless you are immune to the variety of noises your bunkmates may unknowingly make – I know many a snorer who swears they don’t make a peep). The huts have four benches for your stuff and a basin to brush your teeth. That’s it. No plug points or lights. They are glass on the front and the back.
- Pros – you can lie in bed and see the stars at night.
- Cons – not much privacy for changing.
The three huts are positioned perfectly to allow for easy access, yet enough distance from the main hut.
The Main Hut:
This is where all the action happens and where the boxes live. Most likely, the first thing you will experience is the outdoor showers located on either side of the hut. The pure blissfulness of a hot outdoor shower to the soundtrack of the screech of the baboons hiding in the mountains is heavenly after a sweaty day of hiking. The porch of the hut looks onto the firepit, providing a perch to view all the fireside shenanigans (and under those stars, anything is possible).
Inside, there’s a lovely potbelly fireplace and a long dining table with benches for meals and card games. The kitchen is well-stocked and has a couple of gas-stove tops and pots. If the sun has shone all day, you might even have some light as well.
If you are travelling in a group, it’s a lot of fun to share out the meals. One hut per night. We feasted on curries, gourmet pasta and braai dishes at the long table every night. We also happened to have our local baker in our crew who constantly seemed to be pulling out spoils from his apparently bottomless box.
For moments when the conversation may lull, there is a little question card to prompt discussion and ruminate on the deeper meaning of life. Thank heavens for the icebox that chilled the wine…
The Loo:
Located fairly close to the huts, it’s still a bit of a stroll to have your early morning tinkle – there are no lights in the loo, but they flush and are clean.
Leaping Leopards on the Move: The Trail
Day 1: 9.75km
Most people are pretty excited to start the trail and set off on a happy, joyful trot. Within minutes, you hit the first ascent climbing about 150m by the second kilometre. These first kilometres can give you an idea of how your hiking buddies like to do things and where best you fit in the line.
Once on top of the hill, you are surrounded by scrubby, wind-blown fynbos and long grass. We even saw some wild horses who just stared at us bewilderedly. The path veers off to Gabriel’s Pool and you go past what must have been Gabriel’s house. Surrounded by mountains and scrubby vegetation, it does beg the question as to what made this man decide that this was his spot. The little pool situated in the valley between two craggy mountains was not much of a swimming spot at the time but provided some big round stones, a bit of shelter, and a dreamy setting for a pitstop.
The walk from there felt like a breeze and the grassy planes became a winding riverside pathway that led to Camp 1.
Day 2: 18km
This was definitely the hilliest day, peppered with constant climbs and downhills. The kind of day where you think, there can’t be any more hills and then one appears. Lots of stone covered serious-looking countryside with the odd sprinkling of purple-flowered bushes. There is a beautiful ravine to stop for lunch before continuing. Don’t be fooled into thinking the worst is over when you see the sign that says 2km to camp. There is more to come, including a rocky descent into Camp 2.
Day 3: 22km
For those of us desperate for a fynbos fix, Day 3 was magical. At times it felt like we were walking in a private garden with strategically placed proteas and other beautiful colourful blooms lining the hilltops and paths. The hills felt more manageable (although perhaps it was just the fact that one couldn’t help but go a little slower to take in all the beauty). The latter half of the day’s walk is through a beautiful valley where you cross countless dry riverbeds, some with a little water and others completely dry. The vegetation changes the deeper you get into the valley and the scent of wild geranium tugs gently on the breeze. Brightly coloured succulents growing in rock crevices and ferny-like plants make your final stroll a little more colourful. Out of the ravine, the grasses blow in the wind as you finally breeze into Camp 3.
Day 4: 13km
Your last day begins with a grassy meander that takes you to a stunning stream trickling between the high walls of mountains. For a little while all is quiet and still. Then, the ascent starts and before you know it, you have climbed those mountains and are standing on top of the peak. The wind is whipping you from all directions as you stand on top of the world. It’s mostly downhill from there as you make your way back to base camp.
Good personalities to have on a hike:
- The Baker/ Fine Foods Specialist (most valuable pre-hike): Someone who brings an array of delicatessen goods, including cheeses and breads along. All are available at “The Bakery.”
- The Entertainer: The bringer of good humour, positive energy and naughty vibes. Known for good pep talks and keeping morale high.
- The Dad: The voice of reason and logic. Someone to add balance and humour to any situation.
- The Wildcard: The person who keeps you guessing and amazed.
- The Jock: The quiet, handsome dude who is happy to lend a hand when the need arises.
- The Empath: Someone unfailingly sweet and kind who can balance any conversation.
- The Conversationalist: A sparkly personality who can keep the conversation going, even in the tough moments.
- The Nurse: The diagnostician and repository of medical wisdom to advise and treat medical ailments (even if gross).
- The One-Night Wonder: The normally quiet person who suddenly produces enough energy to ignite a party when least expected.
- The Hand-Break: The straggler who guarantees others a longer than anticipated break.
- The Healer (most valuable post-hike): The strongest and gentlest hiker whose hands can revive the weariest muscles.
Tips for Leopard Trail Hikers:
- Take advantage of the icy pool to soak your tired feet at the end of the day. It will help reduce swelling.
- Bring meds for spider bites or shake pants well before putting them on in the morning.
- There is enough space for good bottles of wine in your boxes if you pack carefully.
- Share meals, especially with vegetarians (our food is always tastier).
- Pilchards on crackers taste great in the middle of a hike.
- A sense of humour goes a long way and does rolling your glute on a small ball.
- The pasta spoon makes an excellent microphone, and the colander can amplify sound significantly if positioned correctly.
- Singing Shosholoza loudly can ease any pain and have unexpected results.
- Bring firelighters and order extra wood.
- Be grateful for the experience and watch how nature inspires kindness.
Betty's Sea Vista Township Tour
Fondly known as “China” by many of its inhabitants, the Sea Vista Township is a vibrant residential area located next to the industrial area of St Francis Bay. It is home to an eclectic mix of people, speaking anything from Afrikaans to Chichewa mixed in with a bit of English. The atmosphere feels alive and pulsating with strains of music coming from all corners. Dogs are everywhere looking for scraps or a sunny spot to nap and exist alongside people going about their daily business. On the weekends, the streets are busy and noisy, especially around the taverns. Sea Vista residents live amongst each other, not behind doors and fences. After work or on weekends, people bring their chairs outside and kuier with their neighbours, everybody knows everyone else’s business! The smell of braai meat wafts through the air and there’s always chatter and music.
I hardly knew anything about Sea Vista until recently (even though I live a few kilometres from it). Nothing in my daily life required me to go beyond Tarragona Road. Yet, I was often struck by how much activity and celebration there seemed to be on the other side of the road after hours. I imagine it would be hard to feel lonely in a place like this. When the opportunity to take a township tour with a local guide came about, I seized it – eager to understand more about what life is like for others in my community.
Betty Anoster is our tour guide (and possibly one of the most captivating and resilient people I have ever met). Her hugely successful tours were curated for foreign guests at the Cape St Francis Resort who wanted to learn more about local culture. The tour is a slow stroll through Sea Vista guided by Betty and depending on how long your shebeen stop is, takes about 2 hours.
Talhado
The first stop on the tour is Talhado. Tucked away on the edge of Sea Vista, is a sweet preschool that has been nurturing and educating the youngest Sea Vista residents for the last 26 years. We are met by the charming and gentle Chamel Malgas, the school secretary. The school has four classes taught by qualified teachers in Afrikaans or isiXhosa with a total capacity of 100 children. As a Montessori preschool, Talhado focuses on self-directed activity, hands-on learning and collaborative play. As we walk through the school we see happy children, eager to say hello and give us a smile or a jump.
The school runs solely on donations and charges parents R200 a month (this may not sound like much to some, but as we near the middle of the year, when tourism is low and expenses are high, parents do struggle to come up with these funds). To ensure that the little ones go home with a full belly at the end of the day, the Lunchbox Fund serves the children two cooked meals a day, lovingly prepared by the school cook, Bridget. Talhado has a large playground with a lovely jungle gym as well as a vegetable garden made using recycled materials. I can imagine that when it’s playtime this space is encapsulated by a bubble of joy.
It becomes evident as we tour the school that this is so much more than just a preschool. Under Cathryn Hempel’s community-minded leadership, it serves others in the area as well. In the afternoons, the kitchen transforms into a space to teach sewing classes. There are also plans to convert the media centre into a dance studio. Chamel tells us about a group of young dancers in Sea Vista who are currently taking classes at Salt and how the transport there and back is often an issue. Having a dance studio that is easily accessible would make a world of difference.
This preschool is special and undoubtedly has a far-reaching impact. Chamel tells us with pride how when they track Talhado children through primary school, the top ten typically begin their education at Talhado. Her mood changes to one of concern when she starts to talk about the Sea Vista Primary. There are around 550 children at the school and each grade has only two classes with between 45 and 50 in a class, although the largest class has 58 children. The Co-op has funded 15-20 assistants for the school, but the funding dries up in June and the teachers will be left on their own again). From Grade 1 to 3 the language of instruction is either isiXhosa or Afrikaans. In Grade 4, this changes to English or Afrikaans. Xhosa-speaking children have to adapt quickly and often get lost along the way. Even Talhado does not offer classes in English and English is minimal in their foundation phase. I simply can’t get my head around this – how can these children be expected to cope with a sudden change in language?
Sea Vista Sports Field
After saying goodbye to the gorgeous little people, Betty takes us on a stroll around the corner and shows us the sports field. To our dismay, the fields are locked behind two gates. Apparently, the fields are only unlocked for scheduled matches and on Wednesday afternoons for rugby practice.
With a wistful smile, Betty tells us how the Sea Vista Sports Field was the local after-school hangout place, “Everyone would gather there to practice and run around”. She played netball in a team with her friends, and whenever there was a match, there was always an excited crowd to cheer them on. It was a big deal. She played in the ‘Hulettes’ and they would often play against other teams with equally cool names, such as the ‘Peacelovers.’ Betty talks openly and honestly and tells us how she feels the community has lost control of their home. They should rise up and object to things like the locked sports field and the large classes at the primary school.
Our tour continues and by now we have picked up a friendly pack of dogs with lots of personality to escort us.
The Bahlalis
As we walk, Betty tells us how much Sea Vista has changed in the last five or so years. Post-COVID, more people have been attracted to the area and the township has grown. Sadly, many residents are struggling financially, and alcohol and drug abuse is becoming more of an issue. The police are understaffed and don’t have enough manpower to deal with the many problems plaguing Sea Vista. Criminals are released from prison after a few days and resume their old games, only to be arrested again later. Out of necessity, the community has taken it into their own hands to make sure there are consequences for crimes. Neighbourhood watches called Bahlalis will discipline people who are found stealing, raping or committing violence. They are known to expel criminals from the community by walking them out – if ever you see someone with a suitcase followed by an angry crowd, you can guess what has happened.
The Nightlife
The tour continues and as we approach Rosie’s, we launch into a discussion of what the nightlife is like in Sea Vista. Taverns are open 24 hours a day and parties carry on all night, especially if there is a good DJ. Rosie’s, apparently the most popular bar in town, was in the throws of a facelift so we didn’t get to go inside. Betty tells us that her tours used to include a visit to one or two of the taverns and it was often hard to get her group to leave.
The next stop was Lulu’s and we had a quick chat with the charming manager. It didn’t go unnoticed that the price of beers here is half of what it is in the village and the bar also functions as a bottle store. There’s a pool table and a few booths, already occupied with patrons (at 10am). Strolling through Sea Vista, we go past a few Spaza shops that stock everything from hairpieces to cabbage – small bags of chips must be a top seller as there are crates of them in every shop.
Chisa Nyama and Amapiano
I can just imagine a Saturday afternoon in Sea Vista starting with a haircut while catching up on local gossip. Then, grabbing a Russian and Chips for the kids at Rosie’s Take Away and heading to the chisa nyama guy for a chop and maybe a vetkoek. We could then saunter to Lulu’s for a round of pool and a few beers. The kids are in and out, and fully occupied with their chommies. On the way home, the Spaza shop would have a Coke and a packet of Nik-Naks – all this within a hundred steps and accompanied by the shared soundtrack of Amapiano wafting through the air.
The Clinic, the Library and the Community Centre
After Lulu’s we head towards the Clinic. The clinic always has a full waiting room with lots of people needing meds for various conditions including tuberculosis and HIV. Once a week, a doctor visits for the more serious cases referred to by the nurse, but in general, treatment is administered by the onsite nurses who clearly have their hands full. The big rule is that you must have a clinic book – no book, no help.
Next door is the library – probably my happiest surprise on the tour. As you walk in, you are greeted by Sesetu’s magical smile. The three librarians working there are so welcoming and engaging, they make you want to check out a book! Priscilla is upstairs in the children’s section which is a hive of activity after school. On that day, it was International Play Day and Vula had set up multiple games – ready for action.
From the library, we could peek into the community hall. This is the place often used for funerals, celebrations and public meetings. It’s a safe and central venue but is apparently quite a challenge to book. In the distance we could hear the laughter of little children from the creche sponsored by Pam Golding.
Nomvula’s Knitters
Nomvula’s Knitters is typically the last stop on the tour. This small business runs out of a shop in the Industrial Area off Tarragona Road and is a creative and colourful hub for talented knitters who supply the wholesale knitting market in South Africa and abroad. Pop in and browse through the beautiful knits or buy a few balls of wool. The knitters are always hard at work producing beautiful clothing and home goods and will welcome you with a smile.
As we headed back to our car, I felt so grateful to Betty for giving us this tour and having the initiative to offer something like this to the community. She says that there are seldom South Africans on this tour and it is mostly foreigners who are interested. As a local, I benefitted from this tour. We live in a country home to many different cultures and people from many walks of life. Compassion comes from a point of understanding and acknowledgement and is key to living peaceably together. Thank you, Betty for sharing your experiences with us.
Blossoming young minds & old souls
Although many of us would wish that “life is a bed of roses” (as in Christopher Marlowe’s poem), the truism that the thorns (or rather Bon Jovi’s “bed of nails”) will more likely impact and dominate our daily lives, our moods & actions, pervades. Looking after your mental health has never been so critical as in today’s highly pressurised and demanding society. It is a catchword, a mantra to repeat at the gym, a heartfelt query aimed at those who we care for.
The statistics make for terrifying reading. 1 in 5 adults in the USA, and almost as many here in SA, experience mental health disorders; those affected are almost twice as likely to develop cardio vascular & metabolic disease. And mental illness does not discriminate against age; a latest poll indicated 70% of South African children aged 15-24yrs needed help to improve their mental wellbeing, and in the USA, 3 million adolescents had thoughts of suicide (UNICEF; NAMI; SSM).
Help however, is at hand, in our own beautiful town, nogal! And whether you are feeling depressed, stressed, can’t sleep at night or just need a change in the pace and direction of you life’s path, please do read on about the Art of Living Foundation (AoL). We managed to chat to both Elizabeth Meiring and Susan Botha of AoL and Matt Davis, co-founder and coach at St Francis Bay United (SFBU). What lies ahead in the next few few paragraphs may well change your life – it has for one of us Daisies as well as the budding young soccer stars of SFBU….
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DD: We heard that you are the inspiration behind bringing the AoL & its affiliated courses to St Francis Bay. Can you tell our readers a bit more about yourselves and the Foundation?
Elizabeth: In 2003, Elisabeth Rautenbach and Stella Platinga attended a lifestyle and spiritual festival in PE and was introduced to AoL. They learned to do bastrika (a breathing method), were intrigued and motivated to organise the first course in Kouga for 20 people.
During the next few years, some teachers came and stayed on Elisabeth’s farm (including me), taking Happiness Programs and Art Excel Courses (part of the AoL suite of courses) at Seavista Primary. The community would hold short kriya (breathing meditations) followups locally. We found the breathing techniques and knowledge were of great benefit and helped us gain a broader perspective on life. We were keen to make the courses available for the whole community – whether king or pauper, EVERYONE can benefit.
Susan: I am JBay born and bred, and had discovered AoL during my studies at University of Cape Town. I had been finding life tough and the AoL techniques and life-skills changed my perspective from struggling to light. I loved the idea of shifting from being passive in life to being part of the solution, so I came back to this area to share my experience with all who seek this for themselves. I have since taught several hundred adults and children from all walks of life including the general public, schools, youth leadership training programs and in prisons. In this volunteer role, I have driven many, many miles in an effort to leave no person behind between Gqeberha, JBay and St Francis Bay – where Stella and Eliabeth have continued to share the love all these years.
The Art of Living (AoL) Foundation is a happening. Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, the founder, was quietly sharing spiritual knowledge and meditation, and the unique Sudarshan Kriya (SKY) that came to him after 10 days of deep silence, with people. And organically it has grown into a volunteer-based organisation in 180 countries with 35,000 teachers who have spread the benefits to millions across the globe.
A basic premise is that world peace starts from inner peace, and we strengthen society by strengthening the individuals within it.
DD: What do you think makes the AoL unique?
E & S: The depth! It’s like the ocean – you can gaze at it, paddle ankle deep, surf some waves, or deep dive – the choice is yours. We’ve tried many different modalities and practices and while they all have some merit they simply don’t have this depth … after a while you bottom out.
AoL shares authentic ancient yogi wisdom that has stood the test of time and is more relevant than ever in this modern era. There are many ‘life-hack’ fads based on one or other of the techniques … but none we’ve found has the whole vast deep package, backed with guidance from true masters. The amazing impact the founder, Sri Sri has had in the world is evidence that he walks the talk and works tirelessly yet joyfully to put a smile on everyone’s face. We are touched and inspired by his effective and selfless service.
DD: Can you describe in 3 words how has it impacted on your every-day life?
E & S: Empowering us to bring happiness to living versus waiting for life to line up and ‘make’ us happy. (not 3 words!)
DD: You are planning an Art of Happiness course later on this month – happiness can be elusive for many of us in these stressful times. How can this course help, what are its main aspects and most importantly, how can we sign up!
E & S: Nothing robs you of your happiness like stress – whatever the underlying reason. Yet we’re not taught at school or at home how to truly clear stress from our system. Many of us live in hope of circumstances or something outside of us to make us happy. But this makes us victims in life with the mind stuck in repetitive complaint, frustration or negativity. At some stage we realise …. its kinda like chewing very old tasteless chewing gum! Exhausting and yech. But how to stop?
The Happiness Program is experiential – you will feel a shift in just a weekend. You’ll leave not only feeling positive, calm and light, but also equipped with tools and a home practice to handle whatever life throws at you. The central technique is the unique Sudarshan Kriya (SKY). The results are backed by many peer reviewed studies now, but best is to trust your own experience.
Key benefits
- Quickly & Effectively Reduce Stress with the power of your own breath. Soothe your physiology and come to a calm and positive state of mind. This has helped many with anxiety, depression and addiction too.
- Build Resilience with mind mastery, so you won’t get bothered by issues that used to create frustration, impatience, worry and more.
- Make Meditation Easier and Relax Deeper – Sudarshan Kriya brings your mind to a place where meditation happens with ease. Guided meditations and low impact gentle yoga allow you to experience your beauty within.
- Most people say they Sleep Better, become Healthier, have Abundant Energy and Feel Great.
Learn more and register here for the next Happiness Program in St Francis
DD: What would you say has been your most impactful experience to date?
E & S: Watching people arrive looking tired and somewhat downtrodden by life, and in just a few days looking bright and fresh with a twinkle in their eye. People often say things like: “I feel like a weight has been lifted off me”. We’ve had many cases of people coming out of depression, self-loathing, suicidal ideation, and all manner of stress, anxiety and even middle-class-malaise. However they arrive, they always feel better at the end of a course, and with continued practice the benefits continue to grow and deepen. There is always a moment on every course we teach where we find ourselves shedding a quiet tear of wonder and gratitude at being able to be part of this movement of love.
DD: The AoL also offers really amazing programs for the youth, not just us older Daisies – what is available for our local children and how do you think they can benefit from taking part?
E & S: AoL offers some 52 programs for all people in all walks of life! Here in this area we offer courses for children and teens that are fun and light yet give them empowering life-skills that help them avoid many pitfalls and instead have an ‘unfair advantage’ as they grow into adulthood. We have free courses for people with no or low income and our paid courses are affordable and the funds go towards service projects. It’s the principle of ‘a stitch in time saves nine’. Giving children these outstanding life-skills early is possibly the biggest gift and best foundation they can receive.
DD: You (together with willing assistants, Stephen & Zelda) recently completed a 4-day workshop with a group of children from the St Francis Bay Sport for Youth Project (aka St Francis Bay United Football Club). How did that partnership arise?
E & S: Stella created the Community Umbrella forum so that all community workers could collaborate and support each other with resources. We were wanting to teach courses to children. Sri Sri encourages us to reach children, teens and youth. As the Dalai Lama said: “If every 8-year-old in the world is taught meditation, we will eliminate violence from the world within one generation.” Stella introduced us to Matt from St Francis Bay United Football Club, and he was curious to bring beneficial practices to his team.
DD: What do you hope the kids will take away from these 4 days?
E & S: That they feel empowered and know they have options about how they experience life going forward, regardless of the circumstances. That may sound a bit big … but we are sowing these seeds. Two of them wrote us a short note about the course:
“It took away all the stress I had before coming here and it also helped me to stay calm.” Sipho
“After learning about sugar I have reduced my sugar to only 5 teaspoons in the past days. The breathing, I have seen it helped me over the days.” Zozo
DD: Can you tell our readers more about the other work that you and your partners are doing, and plan to do, in our local Sea Vista community?
E & S: Yes! On 6-8 May we taught over 400 children from grade 3-7 at Sea Vista Primary, where the principal is a visionary legend. Stella and Susan have worked with the school consistently in smaller ways over time and built a relationship there. We’d love to teach the whole school annually, take followups with the children regularly, & teach adult courses for teachers and parents. Our bigger vision is to bring this program to ALL St Francis schools and their communities.
DD: So, how can we help? Do you need volunteers or donations – what can we do?
E & S: If you’ve not yet had a taste of the instant joy of being a volunteer doing service – we invite you to join us. The journey starts with attending the Happiness Program yourself. We’d love help to start :
- a nature outing / hiking club for Sea Vista kids and money will be needed for basic gear, transport, and light refreshments on outings, and
- an empowering movement for girls (could include sport but we’d like it to be broader). The Sea Vista boys have soccer and they need supporting too, but to get going with the girls we need local young women with leadership and facilitation skills and a passion for our young girls.
INTERESTED? FIND OUT MORE…..
Thi
s seven minute video gives a good sense of the Art of Living Foundation. The SA website provides info on local and online courses. Our service initiatives fall under AOL’s projects organisation the International Association for Human Values (IAHV) – website & facebook.
Sri Sri’s knowledge is best experienced through video, but again, come on a course and raise your energy so you can appreciate the subtleties and depth with your heart and not just your head. And we’ll point you to all the resources.
DD also chatted to Matt Davis for his feedback about the course. But first, a little background for those of you who haven’t yet heard of the amazing work he has done for over 100 St Francis Bay youth ….
Matt : Thanks, it actually all began in August 2019 when I started volunteering coaching some kids from Sea Vista. From there I noticed there was a need for youth soccer coaching in the community. William and Inga Brooks from Village Square then noticed us and started sponsoring kit and equipment to get us off the ground and that is what shaped the start of the project. The main objective was to keep the kids off the streets and bring them into a safe active environment where we could train and coach them soccer skills.
DD: Sport for Youth is not only about football though – you strive to achieve your mission of providing ‘a safe environment for the youth of Sea Vista Township and surrounding communities’ through life skills programmes and community projects – please tell us more.
Matt : Yeah, we started with football, which teaches kids a lot of life principles in itself but I always felt we had to bring in some other programs to gel with the sport. Currently we run a life skills and environmental awareness program every Thursday, before we start with practice. We are also actively involved with the Kromme EnviroTrust beach clean ups and whenever they need extra hands to make a difference to the environment. But we are always open to new collaborations for our boys to get involved in!
The boys really enjoyed it, especially some of the younger ones. They learned breath work, yoga and to just be peaceful in those moments of silence which is quite rare in the townships. The kids that finished the course were super stoked and had that sense of pride. Was good to see!!
DD: What inspired you to sign up with the AoL for your group?
Matt : I met Susan, who is really cool and she told me about the program. I thought it would be great for my boys to learn something new and the art of breathing seemed like a great opportunity.
DD: Did anything surprise you during the sessions and what were the main challenges, if any?
Matt: I feel just getting full commitment from the some of the kids and teenagers is always a challenge but those that came every day really enjoyed it and were happy when they got their certificate on the last day. I think even if you are getting the message across to 10 out of 30 kids then you doing a good job.
DD: Have you noticed any changes since completing the course – both on and off the soccer pitch?
Matt: We have been doing some breath work before games to focus and calm down and it seems to be working. We will definitely join another course in the future.
DD: Your organisation is going from strength to strength – what’s next?
Matt : Our aim to to become the best team in Kouga , we just finished 2nd in the top Kouga League so hopefully next season we can win it . We also really need to get our own facility so we can improve the standard of football in the community and run programs out of it for the youth. Its proving to be abit of a struggle but we will keep pushing till we get there.
DD: So, how can we help? Do you need volunteers or donations – what can we do?
Matt : We would love to have volunteers who are interested in soccer coaching or just helping out in any of our programs. We have recently introduced a monthly supporter subscription whereby you can donate a R100+ a month to our project. I would be glad to talk this through with whoever would be interested. You can also check out our website where you can find our newsletters (posted every 2 months).
A hike towards history: the Baviaans Camino
We tossed and turned throughout the night, cocooned in sleeping bags, covered head to toe in thermals and woollen beanies. It was freezing in the isolated, rustic ‘Entkraal’. The incessant sound of the percussive rain on the tin roof was deafening, interspersed only with our hiking companions’ rhythmic snores. The rivers were in spate after weeks of welcome rain. Was the wet hike we had just endured and this seemingly endless nocturnal downpour a prelude to impassable rivers, an enforced lock-in and rationing of fire-wood and whisky?
Fellow Daisies, you may think that the above is rather dramatic, perhaps overly sensational. You may even wonder if we had finally gotten in over our heads. Fear not, we arrived safely back from our 95km, 5 day, epic hike through the wilderness, and with enough energy to ‘tell’ the tale ;). What follows is an account of our experiences on the Baviaans Camino, and can be found in this month’s Skyways (Airlink’s in-flight magazine) in full glossy splendour (thank you Bruce!).
Digging Deep
The last two days had been challenging. We had hiked over 50 km, conquered at least four mountains and experienced all the seasons mother nature could summon. Each one of our small group of women, ranging in age from the late forties to mid-seventies, had begun to question their motivation for signing up, wondering if they were ‘up for the challenge’. We had all disbelievingly asked our guide, multiple times, whether we were really going over that mountain peak (the one over there, far, far away). Her slow, ever-patient nod and encouraging smile was often met with incredulous eyes.
The adventure had started gently in the quaint town of Willowmore, the mohair capital of the Karoo. We convened with our fellow hikers at the Willow Historical Guesthouse, a centuries-old grande dame of a building, crammed full of fascinating antiques and memorabilia from bygone days. Surrounded by a motley pack of dogs, we sat around a roaring fire in the hearth of the hotel’s pub and were briefed on what to expect for the next four days and 95 km (the word ‘hectic’ came up more than once).
The hike kicked off with a jaw dropping 4 km ascent on a gravelly pass – with one section appropriately named ‘Ambulance Hill’. Focussing on our footsteps, we climbed higher and higher, our guide keeping a watchful eye out for any signs of altitude sickness. What waited for us on top of that mountain, far away from the rest of the world, was truly breath-taking and we soon forgot our aching muscles and marvelled at the sights ahead.
Floral Kaleidoscope
Although the rain had brought forth a few grumbles and soggy socks from us, the veld had had no such complaints, and we were incredibly fortunate to witness its post-drought floral bonanza. The most magnificent blooms and hues cloaked the mountains – a unique moment in the fabric of this ancient landscape.
The Baviaans Camino, nestled inside the Baviaanskloof Mega Reserve (a World Heritage Site), showcases seven of South Africa’s eight biomes and is unparalleled in floral and faunal diversity and endemism. It boasts an impressive plethora of species; proteas, succulents and ericas, all beautiful and perfect in their natural surroundings. Each mountain and valley reveals a unique botanical treasure, from Wagon Trees, Willowmore Cedars and Cycads to the appropriately named Shepherd’s Tree. The pure joy one feels surrounded by such mind-boggling beauty is quite exhilarating.
Back at the never-ending rainy night at ‘Entkraal’, the mere thought of missing even one day of this amazing experience was just unbearable. And then, on cue, a lone bird starts to sing in the hazy post-rain dawn. The mountain gods had decreed in our favour, the sun came out and our journey could resume.
Healing Hearth
Nearing the foothills of the Kouga mountains the path becomes less challenging, yet we still had to come across another person or vehicle. Our guide jokingly told us we would end our day with a meander through a garden. Given the wilderness we had traversed, it was hard to fathom such a thing. Little did we know that this landscape breeds creativity, not to mention a fair dose of resilience.
Scaling a fence, we descend through an incredible indigenous garden, carefully laid out by the owner, a maverick, petite and remarkable woman known to tend the mountainsides barefoot in a dress. Below us, nestled in a deep valley is a lush, bucolic, green haven with idyllic farmhouses, a towering orchard of pecan trees, fluffy dots of sheep and a babbling stream winding through the fields. The sight is a healing balm to us weary hikers. It feels as if all the journeys before had led us to this, the heart of the Baviaans Camino. Mooigedacht welcomes us with warmth and graciousness. A fire is blazing in the hearth, an amazing lunch has been prepared and a delicious sampling of the local organic honeybush tea awaits. Heaven.
Every meal on the Camino becomes a special occasion. The tables always look inviting, bursting with delicious seasonal produce and decorated with wildflowers in jam jars. Dinners are provided by the local farmers. So much thought and care goes into presenting their best or newly mastered recipes. Every night we ‘kuiered’ around the fire, hikers and locals, enjoying each other’s company.
The Baviaanskloof region is remote, sparsely populated and only accessible by the toughest vehicles. Those who call this place home have made a conscious decision to surround themselves with mountain peaks, winding river valleys and crisp, clean air. They are generous and kind, willing to open their homes and hearts to strangely clad hikers and make new friends from different walks of life. It is a world far removed from our high city walls and estranged neighbours. Sitting in the glow of the fire, with a full belly and warming drink, we listen to stories of how the community pulled together in miraculous scenarios to help and protect each other. Here in the mountains, a neighbour may be 10kms away, but sleeps safe in the knowledge that in an emergency, help is but a phone-call away.
Pilgrimage Path
We reminisce about our earlier adventures and voice regret at having to re-enter our ‘normal’ lives as we bid farewell to our new friends and walk towards our final night’s accommodation. What had begun as a purely physical experience had evolved into a much more complex, primal and philosophical journey. The Baviaans Camino walked the paths of our forefathers, and in experiencing a taste of their lives, their landscape, hopes and dreams, we too were touched by the ancient wisdom of this wilderness and its inhabitants. We walk now with their spirit within us.
If you are keen to embark on your own pilgrimage in the Baviaanskloof, contact Esti and she’ll help plan your adventure.
From bait to delicacy - calamari tastings at Clive's Chokka Block.
On a warm summer’s day in the waters around St Francis Bay, you may have the privilege to come across one of the sea’s most fascinating creatures. Once thought of as being nothing better than bait, she is now so sought after abroad that this special delicacy from our coastline seldom graces local tables.
Her slim body and eight legs pirouette through the ocean. Her diamond fins flap elegantly as she sways with the underwater foliage. Suddenly she shoots forward on a stream of water leaving an explosion of bubbles in her wake. In a flash, two tentacles whip forward to grab an unsuspecting small fish – little suckers securing the prey.
A temptress in her many guises and forms with the ability to squeeze through a space as big as her beak, the females are picky when it comes to a mate. Courtship begins far above the egg bed. Once the romance blooms, the male uses one of his long arms to place his sperm near where the egg will appear and stays with his lady until the egg has been fertilised. He gallantly escorts her to the egg bed as she cradles her eggs in her arms. Jealous bachelors try their luck at breaking the union and devious tactics are needed to ward off other suitors. Males use their incredible ability to communicate and distract with an ever-changing display of patterns and colours on their mantle. Small pockets of dye create a dazzling spectacle as they flex and contract their inky muscles.
Once they reach the egg bed, the male must still be on his guard as it is now when other large males might try to assert their masculinity and fertilise the eggs. With sperm coming at her from all directions, her mate pulls out all stops in the colour department to defend his damsel in distress. But in the end, this smart lady of the sea chooses the healthiest sperm and lays between 100 and 150 eggs in strands of a jellylike substance attached to the ocean bed or a reef. It will be around twenty days before the squidlings hatch, if the water is warm, the incubation period might be slightly shorter.
The baby chokka will have 8-12 months to frolic in the ocean, squirting around in their undersea playground. Once they have reached maturity, they must head back to the spawning ground. After the deed has been done and eggs laid, the beautiful Loligo renaudii (aka calamari) reach the end of their lifespan and either die a natural death or end up being served in a pool of butter.
At noon, on the 23rd of November, the chokka season opened. Port St Francis, one of the only private ports in South Africa and the heartbeat of the chokka industry, was busier than ever. Inspectors whizzed back and forth between anchored fishing vessels, ready to hit the waters while fishermen were ferried to waiting boats ready to cast their lines and lures.
We were lucky enough to have a bird’s eye view of all the action from Clive’s Chokka Block in the port. We also got to spend time with Clive and learn all about the calamari from our waters. The knowledge and passion this restaurateur and chef has for the Loligo reynaudii or the squid better known as chokka will not only inspire you to never want to eat any other calamari again, but also give you a whole new understanding of the sea creature that drives one of the major industries in our area.
We booked a calamari tasting with Clive to give a visitor from the States a taste of the port. Not only do you learn about the biological makeup of chokka but he also describes the way it is fished and compares it to other calamari both through taste and fishing practices.
Clive comes from a family of chefs of French and Mauritian descent and grew up in Durban. He has worked extensively in the fishing industry and has consulted globally on sustainable fishing practices. Following the family tradition, he moved to St Francis Bay seven years ago and opened “Clive’s Chokka Block.” His restaurant is one of the few places in South Africa that serves local calamari prepared in previously unimagined cuts. He has made it his mission to dispel the notion that chokka is only good as bait and educate patrons about this treasure of our coastline that has breeding grounds between Port Elizabeth and St Francis Bay.
The calamari catchers
The practice of fishing for calamari requires a skilled fisherman who can operate in challenging conditions, often working twenty hours in a row and rotating bunks with crew members for 21 days.
‘Everything you have heard about fishermen is true.’ Clive told us with a glint in his eye.
Generally, fishermen are prohibited from going ashore during their time on the boat (even if the weather is bad or the chokka are not biting) as it seems these guys enjoy ‘liquid refreshment’ a little too much. They are also superstitious about certain things, one being that if you shower while out fishing you wash your luck away. Chokka fishermen are paid per kilogram, so each man makes his own fortune.
How it works
We’ve all seen the armada of chokka boats on the horizon at night with their lights glistening. I’m sure many of us assume that the lights are there to attract the chokka. I was surprised to learn that the lights attract the fish that chokka like to prey on and the squid hang out in the shadows waiting to pounce. Because the chokka are found in the shadows, the lights on the boat are positioned so that the shadow falls just where the fisherman throws in his jigger.
Our calamari is only caught manually using a line in a process called jigging. A fishing line with a special lure called a dolly and a bit of wood to wrap the line around are used. As squid can also be caught during daylight hours nearer the ocean bed, two types of dollies are used – a light, luminescent one for the night and a weighted, larger one for during the day.
Experienced fishermen can handle up to three lines at a time. As the bulk of our calamari is exported to Europe, strict EU fishing standards must be upheld aboard. No other line fish besides calamari is allowed to be caught and strict protocols for freezing the fish must be implemented. Calamari is blast frozen on the boat and then glossed with seawater and transferred to a bigger freezer.
Unfortunately, this practice of ethical fishing does not happen globally. To drive the point home, Clive showed us a few videos of how calamari are caught commercially in other places using mechanical jigs. How the squid are caught and stored appears to be relatively unregulated and often standard of hygiene seem to be questionable (https://youtu.be/Blo0lZigay0?si=VffUVYPcC2yubys-). For an animal that only breeds once in its lifetime, there is concern over depleting resources.
Squid dissection
Another highlight was watching Clive dissect a squid, explaining the body parts and function as he went. Each squid is prepared by hand in his kitchen (during the busy seasons he hires people specifically for this job). The shiny membranes, the mantle that looks like fairy wings, the birdlike beak, the perfect little suckers on the tentacles and the ink pod with its black gold – nature’s attention to detail and magnificent beauty at every point is mind-blowing and humbling.
Local vs imported calamari
To demonstrate the superior quality of local calamari, Clive prepared some calamari from China and Argentina. He prepared each sample identically and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc was used as a palette cleanser between tastes. Without giving too much away, suffice it to say that it was obvious how far superior local calamari is. We can eat it with the knowledge that it has been caught sustainably and not injected with water to bulk it up.
Many thanks to Clive and his staff at Clive’s Chokka Block restaurant for the wonderful information.
Book your tasting! Call +27 (42) 294-1615 or +27 (60) 305-0972 | Website: https://chokkablock.co.za
Pat Holme’s amazing chokka light creations
With our piqued interest in all things chokka, we have to mention one of our very talented Dune Daisies readers. Pat Holmes makes the most amazing lamps using the giant bulbs from decommissioned chokka boats. Having had a house in St Francis since 1980, Pat has watched the industry flourish and came up with the idea to recycle these lights in 2014. Over the years he has perfected his lamp-making skills and fits each light with a customised fitting and top. Every lamp is unique. In addition to hanging lights, Pat is also now making standing lamps using galvanised tubing – very chic. If you would like to see these lights, pop into Nevermind where some are up in the restaurant. Alternatively, give Pat a call at +27 (73) 1640-622 and he will undoubtedly have a creative solution for you.
ARWC 2023 - It's a wrap!
A couple of months ago, the Dune Daisies had never heard of the concept of Adventure Racing, let alone met a real-life racer in the flesh. And now, as we sit in DD HQ sipping our coffee and mulling over the past few weeks’ events, we feel a little bit chuffed (and an awful lot honoured), to have experienced a snippet of the amazing, adrenaline accelerating world of the Adventure Racing World Champs. Seen it, blogged about it, and got the gear (which is fabulous, thank you) and have come away with a radically different view on life and its challenges (we’ll never moan about a 5km run in the wind ever again after what these athletes have been through). We feel humbled and motivated, inspired and awakened to all that life has to offer – with the added bonus of having made some new friends.
We didn’t take part in the gruelling, take-you-to-your-limits, 800km endurance race, but we did meet some amazing people along the way; from volunteers, participants, race organisers to supporters. We’d like to honour all who made this event truly unforgettable – and share with you some AR moments that may have slipped through the social media net ;).
Team 66: Celts Endurance – on bonding, buckled wheels & best podium finish
We enjoyed the bike sections most – especially when we teamed up with a Spanish team and sang songs to keep us going through the night. Any song where we knew two words was good enough! Then one of our teammates fell asleep and rode head on into a barrier, buckling his wheel. Luckily, we managed to bounce up and down on the wheel to straighten it out and cycle the next 60 kms to the next stop.
Before we entered the finishing stretch to the Resort, we all got into the sea. It was really emotional. We were crying and telling each other what this race meant to us. Everyone is on a personal journey. Experiencing this together and finishing the race was amazing. Robbie was the first South African home, and the Resort staff got up onto the podium and danced with us – we even got a standing ovation!
Team 75: Expenature France Sud Raid – on portage parties, pies and magnetic mishaps
In the kayak section, it was so hard to decide which side to get out and it was just before the Dark Zone (mandatory halt in racing during the night for safety reasons). Everyone seemed to be having portage parties (probably not the kind of ‘parties’ you and I are used to!) and I ended up carrying someone else’s boat up river to where we were going to stay for the night! When I realised the mistake, I had to carry it all the way back again. Nothing quite like doing extra carrying at that time of night!
And the pies!! We stopped at a shop and had three pies each (we were THAT hungry). We also had quite a bit of trouble with our compasses. One sent us one way, the other in a different direction – with all the glag (Irish speak for mist), we couldn’t tell which way we were meant to go. It was only three days later that we realised it was the metallic buttons on my fancy shirt that was messing up the compass readings!!
Volunteer: Carmen Hamilton – on transition tents, paddle palaver and weekly Weetbix
I was constantly amazed by the positive morale at transition tents. Volunteers would be dead tired by the time teams came in (after all the preps to make sure their transition would be comfortable), yet they would always welcome them with huge smiles and words of encouragement. At Transition 6, competitors arrived absolutely exhausted, but once in the tent, it wasn’t long before you heard them chatting and laughing with other teams, comparing how often they fell off their kayaks into the river. A Swedish volunteer commented that ‘this is not a transition tent, it is a circus tent!’, describing the atmosphere brilliantly. In another situation, a team had lost their paddles and their support member commented that ‘city boys can’t swim like farm boys can!’
I have absolutely loved this experience and learned so much, even that I can survive on only biltong and Weetbix for 2 days!
THE BIKE WASHERS’ TALE; A SHORT STORY BY M LANGLANDS
We had volunteered for Expedition Africa’s 2017 adventure race and again in 2020, so we thought we knew what to expect this time around. Were we ever wrong! The only remaining volunteer spot was bike washing at Transition 7. Ah well, how hard could it be? We set out to recruit some extra helpers; a couple of brave hearts, both of them medical doctors, to join our nucleus of three, and the game was on. It turned out that TP7 was just outside Steytlerville, a Karoo guest farm, and the first competitors were expected there on the Sunday. So we left St Francis on Saturday, in the rain, to Steytlerville, only to find that the farm was cut off from the world by a river in spate. So instead of camping in the rain we spent the night in a Steytlerville B&B. And patronised the pub in the Royal Hotel. Definitely no complaints from us.
The river subsided to its normal flow during the night and Sunday morning saw us putting up our tents at the guest farm and getting into our bike-washing kit – gumboots, rain gear, rubber gloves and ARWC tee shirts. We reported for duty and staff from the Coimbra Bike Shop in St Francis, our bosses, lost no time in showing us to our wash bay. We were taken through the bike wash process – first a spray down with bike cleaner, then a hose down with a pressure hose, then a wash with soapy water and a final rinse – and we were ready for business.
The first team didn’t arrive till early afternoon, the formidable Swedish Armed Forces – moving calmly and unhurriedly but wasting no time. Their bikes were caked in mud, after the previous day and night of rain, so it was a good test of our newly-learned skills. The weather, fortunately, was kind from Sunday onwards and we enjoyed meeting Danie Craven’s grandson and namesake, the current owner of Noorspoort, who put all the farm’s facilities to work for the race. His smiling face and cheerful attitude made it a very happy transition point – although the competitors were probably too exhausted to fully appreciate it. When we left on the Wednesday we were asked to give a few people a lift back to St Francis. This was a great opportunity to talk to this special breed of people, adventure racers, and find out how they tick. Their motto seems to be ‘if you are lucky enough to have the facility to run, cycle, paddle and orientate – use it!’
And that is the story of the most over-qualified and least experienced bike washing team in South Africa (Inèz Rossouw, Jeanette Kriel, Ken and Mandy McGregor, and Maggie Langlands).
Farm owner: Ruan Lamphrecht of Doringkloof Bushcamp – on flame grilled food, bakkie braais & hundreds of hamburgers
“It was a privilege to be part of such an event and we had over 500 people pass through our farm. We prepared more food than we ever imagined possible: 300 hamburgers, 300 boerewors rolls & 250 portions of curry & rice!” We at Dune Daisies particularly liked the double tot options available 😉
The essence of true adventure racers: Absoluraid Capganguise Team 77
St Francis Bay residents, including Dune Daisies, have watched in awe as the best endurance athletes in the world have pushed their bodies, minds and souls to breaking point, all in the name of adventure racing. There have been tears, trench foot, torn muscles, technical issues and treacherous mountain traverses; not to mention sleep monsters, stormy nights and sodden equipment. Surely this cannot be ‘fun’? Which begs the question, why do they push themselves to such extremes?
It may be that adventure racers possess the ability to transform each of these challenges into life lessons. Or it could also be that many of the competitors we chatted to were remarkably humble. World-class competitors who have long since dropped their egos along a dusty road to make way for the incredible teamwork required to survive the elements. And let’s not forget the humour – wherever adventure racers are, you are bound to hear a joke or wry comment, using humour to uplift a tricky situation. Whatever the magic ingredient, it is something so vital, so alluring, that it can anoint mere mortals with the ability to go deeper, further and with more humility and wisdom than we would ever hope to possess.
Sometimes there are parameters that you cannot control in this type of race.
Chiara
Curious to gain a deeper understanding of this most unique of human species, we chatted to a team that grew close to our hearts during this event (and not only because the lone woman of the team, Chiara Casari must be the most glamourous, inspirational – read: aeronautical engineer – chick on the AR circuit!).
They first landed on our DD radar on Tuesday 26th October. The distress signal came into ARWC HQ at Cape St Francis Resort at around 14.35hrs on Day 6.
Team 77, Absoluraid Capganguise from Toulouse, France, were in trouble – 120 hours into the most gruelling adventure racing world championship. One of their teammates, Yannick Perrin, was vomiting and weak. They were unable to move from their position deep in the Kouga Mountain wilderness and were out of options. On a blustery, unforgiving windswept expanse of rock and fynbos, Team 77 made the heart-breaking decision to retire from the competition. Aiming for a top 5 podium finish, their hopes had crumbled.
Yannick told DD that by that stage, for him, it was actually a ‘really easy’ decision to stop. ‘I was ill,’ Yannick explained, ‘we waited almost 10 hours to sleep and we came back again into the race. The following night, Johann Thomas & Lionel Villeneuve also fell ill, but we still managed to ride for another 5/6 hours.’ But then, ‘Johann became really, really ill; he was shaking. We had to stop. You just cannot fight against this type of thing. When you are tired or when the track is difficult, you can handle it, you can fight, you can manage the mental toll. But when it is your health – it is too difficult.’ He joked that in the next race, they would, ‘have both an orienteerer and a doctor in the team!’
Back to the inhospitable mountain. Calls were made between emergency staff and nearby local landowners. Byron Le Roux from Baviaans Lodge headed out to their last logged location. He found Chiara, Yannick, Johann and Lionel and brought them back to the comfort we take for granted – food, shelter, safe drinking water. The next day, Anton (a Dune Daisies husband and dad), together with his three cows on their way to market, transported the team back to the Cape St Francis Resort.
The things that you remember after a trip are not standing on the summit but what went on while you were on the route.
Mo Anthoine, ‘To the summit.’
By 16.00hrs on Wednesday all three men had to be taken to a local doctor for emergency treatment. Chiara stayed behind to support Lionel’s daughter, who had flown out from France to welcome her father across the finish line. This dream was now replaced by the urgent wish that her dad would be okay.
Family back home were kept updated with pictures and reports from the doctor’s rooms. Chiara explained that they have a huge team of supporters, all on a Whatsapp group for this event. ‘Our relatives and even non-sporty friends follow the race closely. Teammates from our club in Toulouse (founded in 2016 by Lionel) who understand the topography, translate what is happening to our other supporters; why we sleep, why we have stopped and the benefits of different route choices.’
Chiara’s parents are ardent supporters, even joining the team when they competed in Croatia, whilst Yannick’s wife has faith that he, and his teammates, ‘can handle difficult situations.’ Clearly Team 77, and most other racing teams, could not manage this sport’s testing mental and physical tolls without unwavering help from friends and family.
Fortunately, by the following morning, all four team members were better, well-rested and recovered, and officially off our worry list. By that stage, they were already reminiscing about the high points of their adventure, which included spectacular sunrises and big tortoises (not often seen in and around Toulouse). One favourite was, ‘when we arrived in the dunes and saw the sea for the first time, and then ran in the sand dunes.’
They were all unanimous that the Eastern Cape had, ‘better scenery than Europe.’ They planned to end their time in South Africa enjoying the wildlife in Addo and various other game reserves. This tight-knit foursome, who not only race together but also party and holiday with each other, are clearly well-versed in making the most of every moment, race and adventure that comes their way. However, they were not quite yet ready to think about their next race. Give them a day or two and we are sure they will be back training, their sights set on yet another challenge.
You didn’t beat me. You merely finished in front of me. Hal Higdon, ‘To the summit.’
A local adventure racer in our dunes! Juan Oosthuizen
ARWC 2023 fever has hit the Dune Daisies and we can’t get enough of this sport. Imagine doing multiple marathon-length trail runs, cycling (often in the dark) on gravel roads through mountain passes or bush for almost 500km, a quick 60km kayak and then, just to keep things exciting, a quick abseil of about 50m in no more than 9 days.
Competitors must provide their own food and water while on the move and may not have any contact or help from anyone. Finding drinkable water is a priority for teams as staying hydrated is vital for success. This can be quite a challenge in unfamiliar surroundings or water-deprived areas. Before the race, each team packs boxes of only 25kg – holding provisions and appropriate gear for the various legs of the race. They can access these boxes at transition points which is also where they pick up or drop off their bicycles. If something breaks, they have to work together to fix it.
As if this wasn’t enough of a challenge, teams only get the maps for the next leg of their journey once the previous one has been completed. They get a topographical map and a compass and must figure out the route as they go. There are checkpoints along the way to keep them on track and failure to stop at a checkpoint can cause a team to be disqualified. The use of technology is prohibited. The only communication allowed besides with their teammates is to talk to a shopkeeper to purchase food or water.
The teams who want to come in the top ten generally sleep on the side of the road for an hour or two when they cannot carry on any further. There is a lot of talk about ‘sleep monsters’ who visit when lack of sleep delirium kicks in. Competitors are challenged at every angle possible – physically, mentally and emotionally. All daily comforts are stripped away, and they have to reach their goal together, only as strong as the weakest team member.
As this is the world championship, teams have flown in from all over the world (about 40 countries). The top-ranked team is the Swedish Armed Forces, but the Estonian team is said to be close on their heels. French, South African, Spanish, American, Brazilian and Kiwi teams are all in the top ten.
Among all these top contenders is one of our own. A lad whose family lives in St Francis, Juan Oosthuizen from the Truffle Hunters (#15). He is a bio-kineticist and Pilates instructor who has two practices in Pretoria. Since his parents moved to St Francis in 2021, he has spent a lot of time on our trails on both bike and foot. We were lucky enough to catch up with him before he embarked on the race, and he gave us some wonderful insight.
DD: What do you think will be the biggest challenge for you in this race?
JO: Sleep deprivation will definitely be the hardest part about race, it will be the longest I have gone without a full night’s sleep. Your boundaries are really pushed without a full night’s sleep, and it is hard to maintain mental stability. I have done adventure races before of a few hundred kms and long bike races, but nothing this far before. This race is 800kms and it will be a real challenge for me. Having to deal with your eyes closing while you are cycling or when you start to hallucinate or fall asleep in the dark is scary. I am also one of the team navigators while we are cycling, so I need to keep us on track and going to the right destination, all the while staying motivated and positive. My role in the team is also as packhorse when the others are taking strain, I need to help by lightening their load and possibly carrying their packs or towing them.
DD: Do you think your knowledge of the area will give you an advantage?
JO: It will definitely help, even though I am not familiar with all the areas. Just knowing where the mountain is and where the climbs will be will help with pacing and ensuring that we are on the right track. Hopefully, this will also help keep everyone calm and peaceful. Problems start when you get agitated thinking you might be lost. One of our other team members, Andrea is from the Port Elizabeth vicinity, and I am sure that if we start in the area of the dunes up the coast as I suspect we will, her knowledge will help us.
DD: What will your last meal before the race be?
JO: My last meal will probably be a good lasagne – something warm and starchy with some protein. Most likely it will be the last warm thing we eat until after the race. On the course, we eat race bars, nuts, dried fruit, meal replacements and energy gels. We will try and eat as much wholesome food as possible, but it’s not easy when you can only pack 4.7kg of food and clothing per box. Most of the food needs to be dry as it will stand in the sun. It could also rain and dry food does better. We each have 7 packs of food for the transitions, so that should keep us going. So, I’m looking forward to my beef lasagne tonight and possibly also some malva pudding or lemon meringue.
DD: What are you most excited about?
JO: For me, it’s just about being alive and free. Having the freedom to do things like this is special. Sometimes we get stuck in the world and its materialism; grafting just to reach a certain status or level of financial well-being. Adventure racing is about being free and living in the wilderness and getting a sense of simplicity. It’s also about appreciating the other competitors and your teammates. This is an opportunity to be present.
Being out there brings me back to earth, it’s where I feel most alive. That’s why I come back to these events because you feel alive when you’re in it and afterwards you feel that you can conquer the world.
It’s a special feeling that you can’t explain to someone unless you are truly there in the moment. There might also be moments that are not so nice, like when you are ice cold and all you have is the people around you. They are the ones that are going to keep you happy and alive. We will also have the thrill of knowing that we are seeing and experiencing things that no one else has. It will be exhilarating to be in untamed places like those in the Karoo. I cannot wait to express myself out there and live like a free man.
DD: How well do you know your team members?
JO: I am pretty close to my teammates and we know each other well. Franco and I have done a few races together, we also did some volunteer work on the Sky Race. He’s the co-captain and navigator. Damon is actually living in the UK although he was born in South Africa. I haven’t really met him yet other than on Zoom calls. He’s going to be our captain and navigator and I think we are going to get along well. He’s awesome to be around and always creates a good atmosphere. They are the founding members of the Truffle Hunters. Andrea is a PE local and is an excellent cyclist. She has done some Cape Epics and came fourth in the TransBaviaans. She will really be able to help us get to the top of our game when it comes to cycling. I believe she will help keep us calm psychologically – women tend to have the ability to do that. She also knows the area quite well.
I think we are a dynamic team and will be a strong dark horse in this race. We hope to finish in the top thirty, anything above that will be a bonus. Even though I think we are strong contenders, our priority is to finish together with warm hearts.