Hiking the Leopard Trail

If ever you have a chance to spend a little time in the Baviaanskloof, you should leap at it. It’s the ultimate destination to switch off from the rest of the world and feel enfolded by nature. Besides a quirky treehouse, cave dwellings, khoi-khoi paintings, and Vero’s roosterbrood, there is the increasingly popular Leopard Trail.

The trail is a four-day/ three-night hike that traverses hills, valleys, mountain tops, rocky bits, scrubby flat terrain and lush garden-like paths – each with its own selection of fabulous fynbos and indigenous greenery. You will feel all the elements in one day – prepare to be blitzed by a howling wind and moments later bathed in sunlight in a tranquil and protected corner. You will climb to the peak of a mountain (in my case, on all fours), walk over undulating hills, shuffle down sides of mountains, meander through grassy plains and hop across streams on stepping stones.

It’s simply glorious.

So, read on if you’d like to find out more about what to expect on the Leopard Trail.

When to hike the Leopard Trail?

A group of us recently did this trail together (August, 2024) and had an absolute blast. The advantage of doing it in the winter months was that we experienced the full beauty of the fynbos. The proteas were in bloom, the buchu fragrant and we were mostly surrounded by greenery. In summer, while you can take advantage of the streams and pools to cool off, the vegetation might not be as lush. A winter hike also means that you can sleep later and spend the day hiking – not rushing to avoid the midday sun. Don’t get me started on the winter sky….

Slack-Packing

For those who don’t fancy carrying a heavy backpack, the Leopard Trail is perfect. Each person gets assigned a box that they can fill with all their stuff (food, clothing, sleeping bag etc). The boxes magically appear at the appropriate camp in the afternoon – no schlepping required.

A word on packing:

Ladies, pack like a dude. You don’t need any of the extra stuff – keep it simple: good socks and trail shoes, hiking clothes plus comfy clothes and shoes for the evening.

Dudes, don’t forget jackets and jammies.

The Three Leopard Trail Camps:

The Sleeping Huts

Each camp has three wooden huts with two bunkbeds in each hut (earplugs are a must unless you are immune to the variety of noises your bunkmates may unknowingly make – I know many a snorer who swears they don’t make a peep). The huts have four benches for your stuff and a basin to brush your teeth. That’s it. No plug points or lights. They are glass on the front and the back.

• Pros – you can lie in bed and see the stars at night.
• Cons – not much privacy for changing.

The three huts are positioned perfectly to allow for easy access, yet enough distance from the main hut.

The Main Hut:

This is where all the action happens and where the boxes live. Most likely, the first thing you will experience is the outdoor showers located on either side of the hut. The pure blissfulness of a hot outdoor shower to the soundtrack of the screech of the baboons hiding in the mountains is heavenly after a sweaty day of hiking. The porch of the hut looks onto the firepit, providing a perch to view all the fireside shenanigans (and under those stars, anything is possible).

Inside, there’s a lovely potbelly fireplace and a long dining table with benches for meals and card games. The kitchen is well-stocked and has a couple of gas-stove tops and pots. If the sun has shone all day, you might even have some light as well.

If you are travelling in a group, it’s a lot of fun to share out the meals. One hut per night. We feasted on curries, gourmet pasta and braai dishes at the long table every night. We also happened to have our local baker in our crew who constantly seemed to be pulling out spoils from his apparently bottomless box.

For moments when the conversation may lull, there is a little question card to prompt discussion and ruminate on the deeper meaning of life. Thank heavens for the icebox that chilled the wine…

The Loo:

Located fairly close to the huts, it’s still a bit of a stroll to have your early morning tinkle – there are no lights in the loo, but they flush and are clean.

Leaping Leopards on the Move: The Trail

Day 1: 9.75km

Most people are pretty excited to start the trail and set off on a happy, joyful trot. Within minutes, you hit the first ascent climbing about 150m by the second kilometre. These first kilometres can give you an idea of how your hiking buddies like to do things and where best you fit in the line.

Once on top of the hill, you are surrounded by scrubby, wind-blown fynbos and long grass. We even saw some wild horses who just stared at us bewilderedly. The path veers off to Gabriel’s Pool and you go past what must have been Gabriel’s house. Surrounded by mountains and scrubby vegetation, it does beg the question as to what made this man decide that this was his spot. The little pool situated in the valley between two craggy mountains was not much of a swimming spot at the time but provided some big round stones, a bit of shelter, and a dreamy setting for a pitstop.

The walk from there felt like a breeze and the grassy planes became a winding riverside pathway that led to Camp 1.

Day 2: 18km

This was definitely the hilliest day, peppered with constant climbs and downhills. The kind of day where you think, there can’t be any more hills and then one appears. Lots of stone covered serious-looking countryside with the odd sprinkling of purple-flowered bushes. There is a beautiful ravine to stop for lunch before continuing. Don’t be fooled into thinking the worst is over when you see the sign that says 2km to camp. There is more to come, including a rocky descent into Camp 2.

Day 3: 22km

For those of us desperate for a fynbos fix, Day 3 was magical. At times it felt like we were walking in a private garden with strategically placed proteas and other beautiful colourful blooms lining the hilltops and paths. The hills felt more manageable (although perhaps it was just the fact that one couldn’t help but go a little slower to take in all the beauty). The latter half of the day’s walk is through a beautiful valley where you cross countless dry riverbeds, some with a little water and others completely dry. The vegetation changes the deeper you get into the valley and the scent of wild geranium tugs gently on the breeze. Brightly coloured succulents growing in rock crevices and ferny-like plants make your final stroll a little more colourful. Out of the ravine, the grasses blow in the wind as you finally breeze into Camp 3.

Day 4: 13km

Your last day begins with a grassy meander that takes you to a stunning stream trickling between the high walls of mountains. For a little while all is quiet and still. Then, the ascent starts and before you know it, you have climbed those mountains and are standing on top of the peak. The wind is whipping you from all directions as you stand on top of the world. It’s mostly downhill from there as you make your way back to base camp.

Good personalities to have on a hike:

• The Baker/ Fine Foods Specialist (most valuable pre-hike): Someone who brings an array of delicatessen goods, including cheeses and breads along. All are available at “The Bakery.”
• The Entertainer: The bringer of good humour, positive energy and naughty vibes. Known for good pep talks and keeping morale high.
• The Dad: The voice of reason and logic. Someone to add balance and humour to any situation.
• The Wildcard: The person who keeps you guessing and amazed.
• The Jock: The quiet, handsome dude who is happy to lend a hand when the need arises.
• The Empath: Someone unfailingly sweet and kind who can balance any conversation.
• The Conversationalist: A sparkly personality who can keep the conversation going, even in the tough moments.
• The Nurse: The diagnostician and repository of medical wisdom to advise and treat medical ailments (even if gross).
• The One-Night Wonder: The normally quiet person who suddenly produces enough energy to ignite a party when least expected.
• The Hand-Break: The straggler who guarantees others a longer than anticipated break.
• The Healer (most valuable post-hike):  The strongest and gentlest hiker whose hands can revive the weariest muscles.

Tips for Leopard Trail Hikers:

• Take advantage of the icy pool to soak your tired feet at the end of the day. It will help reduce swelling.
• Bring meds for spider bites or shake pants well before putting them on in the morning.
• There is enough space for good bottles of wine in your boxes if you pack carefully.
• Share meals, especially with vegetarians (our food is always tastier).
• Pilchards on crackers taste great in the middle of a hike.
• A sense of humour goes a long way and does rolling your glute on a small ball.
• The pasta spoon makes an excellent microphone, and the colander can amplify sound significantly if positioned correctly.
• Singing Shosholoza loudly can ease any pain and have unexpected results.
• Bring firelighters and order extra wood.
• Be grateful for the experience and watch how nature inspires kindness.