A hike towards history: the Baviaans Camino
We tossed and turned throughout the night, cocooned in sleeping bags, covered head to toe in thermals and woollen beanies. It was freezing in the isolated, rustic ‘Entkraal’. The incessant sound of the percussive rain on the tin roof was deafening, interspersed only with our hiking companions’ rhythmic snores. The rivers were in spate after weeks of welcome rain. Was the wet hike we had just endured and this seemingly endless nocturnal downpour a prelude to impassable rivers, an enforced lock-in and rationing of fire-wood and whisky?
Fellow Daisies, you may think that the above is rather dramatic, perhaps overly sensational. You may even wonder if we had finally gotten in over our heads. Fear not, we arrived safely back from our 95km, 5 day, epic hike through the wilderness, and with enough energy to ‘tell’ the tale ;). What follows is an account of our experiences on the Baviaans Camino, and can be found in this month’s Skyways (Airlink’s in-flight magazine) in full glossy splendour (thank you Bruce!).
Digging Deep
The last two days had been challenging. We had hiked over 50 km, conquered at least four mountains and experienced all the seasons mother nature could summon. Each one of our small group of women, ranging in age from the late forties to mid-seventies, had begun to question their motivation for signing up, wondering if they were ‘up for the challenge’. We had all disbelievingly asked our guide, multiple times, whether we were really going over that mountain peak (the one over there, far, far away). Her slow, ever-patient nod and encouraging smile was often met with incredulous eyes.
The adventure had started gently in the quaint town of Willowmore, the mohair capital of the Karoo. We convened with our fellow hikers at the Willow Historical Guesthouse, a centuries-old grande dame of a building, crammed full of fascinating antiques and memorabilia from bygone days. Surrounded by a motley pack of dogs, we sat around a roaring fire in the hearth of the hotel’s pub and were briefed on what to expect for the next four days and 95 km (the word ‘hectic’ came up more than once).
The hike kicked off with a jaw dropping 4 km ascent on a gravelly pass – with one section appropriately named ‘Ambulance Hill’. Focussing on our footsteps, we climbed higher and higher, our guide keeping a watchful eye out for any signs of altitude sickness. What waited for us on top of that mountain, far away from the rest of the world, was truly breath-taking and we soon forgot our aching muscles and marvelled at the sights ahead.
Floral Kaleidoscope
Although the rain had brought forth a few grumbles and soggy socks from us, the veld had had no such complaints, and we were incredibly fortunate to witness its post-drought floral bonanza. The most magnificent blooms and hues cloaked the mountains – a unique moment in the fabric of this ancient landscape.
The Baviaans Camino, nestled inside the Baviaanskloof Mega Reserve (a World Heritage Site), showcases seven of South Africa’s eight biomes and is unparalleled in floral and faunal diversity and endemism. It boasts an impressive plethora of species; proteas, succulents and ericas, all beautiful and perfect in their natural surroundings. Each mountain and valley reveals a unique botanical treasure, from Wagon Trees, Willowmore Cedars and Cycads to the appropriately named Shepherd’s Tree. The pure joy one feels surrounded by such mind-boggling beauty is quite exhilarating.
Back at the never-ending rainy night at ‘Entkraal’, the mere thought of missing even one day of this amazing experience was just unbearable. And then, on cue, a lone bird starts to sing in the hazy post-rain dawn. The mountain gods had decreed in our favour, the sun came out and our journey could resume.
Healing Hearth
Nearing the foothills of the Kouga mountains the path becomes less challenging, yet we still had to come across another person or vehicle. Our guide jokingly told us we would end our day with a meander through a garden. Given the wilderness we had traversed, it was hard to fathom such a thing. Little did we know that this landscape breeds creativity, not to mention a fair dose of resilience.
Scaling a fence, we descend through an incredible indigenous garden, carefully laid out by the owner, a maverick, petite and remarkable woman known to tend the mountainsides barefoot in a dress. Below us, nestled in a deep valley is a lush, bucolic, green haven with idyllic farmhouses, a towering orchard of pecan trees, fluffy dots of sheep and a babbling stream winding through the fields. The sight is a healing balm to us weary hikers. It feels as if all the journeys before had led us to this, the heart of the Baviaans Camino. Mooigedacht welcomes us with warmth and graciousness. A fire is blazing in the hearth, an amazing lunch has been prepared and a delicious sampling of the local organic honeybush tea awaits. Heaven.
Every meal on the Camino becomes a special occasion. The tables always look inviting, bursting with delicious seasonal produce and decorated with wildflowers in jam jars. Dinners are provided by the local farmers. So much thought and care goes into presenting their best or newly mastered recipes. Every night we ‘kuiered’ around the fire, hikers and locals, enjoying each other’s company.
The Baviaanskloof region is remote, sparsely populated and only accessible by the toughest vehicles. Those who call this place home have made a conscious decision to surround themselves with mountain peaks, winding river valleys and crisp, clean air. They are generous and kind, willing to open their homes and hearts to strangely clad hikers and make new friends from different walks of life. It is a world far removed from our high city walls and estranged neighbours. Sitting in the glow of the fire, with a full belly and warming drink, we listen to stories of how the community pulled together in miraculous scenarios to help and protect each other. Here in the mountains, a neighbour may be 10kms away, but sleeps safe in the knowledge that in an emergency, help is but a phone-call away.
Pilgrimage Path
We reminisce about our earlier adventures and voice regret at having to re-enter our ‘normal’ lives as we bid farewell to our new friends and walk towards our final night’s accommodation. What had begun as a purely physical experience had evolved into a much more complex, primal and philosophical journey. The Baviaans Camino walked the paths of our forefathers, and in experiencing a taste of their lives, their landscape, hopes and dreams, we too were touched by the ancient wisdom of this wilderness and its inhabitants. We walk now with their spirit within us.
If you are keen to embark on your own pilgrimage in the Baviaanskloof, contact Esti and she’ll help plan your adventure.
From bait to delicacy - calamari tastings at Clive's Chokka Block.
On a warm summer’s day in the waters around St Francis Bay, you may have the privilege to come across one of the sea’s most fascinating creatures. Once thought of as being nothing better than bait, she is now so sought after abroad that this special delicacy from our coastline seldom graces local tables.
Her slim body and eight legs pirouette through the ocean. Her diamond fins flap elegantly as she sways with the underwater foliage. Suddenly she shoots forward on a stream of water leaving an explosion of bubbles in her wake. In a flash, two tentacles whip forward to grab an unsuspecting small fish – little suckers securing the prey.
A temptress in her many guises and forms with the ability to squeeze through a space as big as her beak, the females are picky when it comes to a mate. Courtship begins far above the egg bed. Once the romance blooms, the male uses one of his long arms to place his sperm near where the egg will appear and stays with his lady until the egg has been fertilised. He gallantly escorts her to the egg bed as she cradles her eggs in her arms. Jealous bachelors try their luck at breaking the union and devious tactics are needed to ward off other suitors. Males use their incredible ability to communicate and distract with an ever-changing display of patterns and colours on their mantle. Small pockets of dye create a dazzling spectacle as they flex and contract their inky muscles.
Once they reach the egg bed, the male must still be on his guard as it is now when other large males might try to assert their masculinity and fertilise the eggs. With sperm coming at her from all directions, her mate pulls out all stops in the colour department to defend his damsel in distress. But in the end, this smart lady of the sea chooses the healthiest sperm and lays between 100 and 150 eggs in strands of a jellylike substance attached to the ocean bed or a reef. It will be around twenty days before the squidlings hatch, if the water is warm, the incubation period might be slightly shorter.
The baby chokka will have 8-12 months to frolic in the ocean, squirting around in their undersea playground. Once they have reached maturity, they must head back to the spawning ground. After the deed has been done and eggs laid, the beautiful Loligo renaudii (aka calamari) reach the end of their lifespan and either die a natural death or end up being served in a pool of butter.
At noon, on the 23rd of November, the chokka season opened. Port St Francis, one of the only private ports in South Africa and the heartbeat of the chokka industry, was busier than ever. Inspectors whizzed back and forth between anchored fishing vessels, ready to hit the waters while fishermen were ferried to waiting boats ready to cast their lines and lures.
We were lucky enough to have a bird’s eye view of all the action from Clive’s Chokka Block in the port. We also got to spend time with Clive and learn all about the calamari from our waters. The knowledge and passion this restaurateur and chef has for the Loligo reynaudii or the squid better known as chokka will not only inspire you to never want to eat any other calamari again, but also give you a whole new understanding of the sea creature that drives one of the major industries in our area.
We booked a calamari tasting with Clive to give a visitor from the States a taste of the port. Not only do you learn about the biological makeup of chokka but he also describes the way it is fished and compares it to other calamari both through taste and fishing practices.
Clive comes from a family of chefs of French and Mauritian descent and grew up in Durban. He has worked extensively in the fishing industry and has consulted globally on sustainable fishing practices. Following the family tradition, he moved to St Francis Bay seven years ago and opened “Clive’s Chokka Block.” His restaurant is one of the few places in South Africa that serves local calamari prepared in previously unimagined cuts. He has made it his mission to dispel the notion that chokka is only good as bait and educate patrons about this treasure of our coastline that has breeding grounds between Port Elizabeth and St Francis Bay.
The calamari catchers
The practice of fishing for calamari requires a skilled fisherman who can operate in challenging conditions, often working twenty hours in a row and rotating bunks with crew members for 21 days.
‘Everything you have heard about fishermen is true.’ Clive told us with a glint in his eye.
Generally, fishermen are prohibited from going ashore during their time on the boat (even if the weather is bad or the chokka are not biting) as it seems these guys enjoy ‘liquid refreshment’ a little too much. They are also superstitious about certain things, one being that if you shower while out fishing you wash your luck away. Chokka fishermen are paid per kilogram, so each man makes his own fortune.
How it works
We’ve all seen the armada of chokka boats on the horizon at night with their lights glistening. I’m sure many of us assume that the lights are there to attract the chokka. I was surprised to learn that the lights attract the fish that chokka like to prey on and the squid hang out in the shadows waiting to pounce. Because the chokka are found in the shadows, the lights on the boat are positioned so that the shadow falls just where the fisherman throws in his jigger.
Our calamari is only caught manually using a line in a process called jigging. A fishing line with a special lure called a dolly and a bit of wood to wrap the line around are used. As squid can also be caught during daylight hours nearer the ocean bed, two types of dollies are used – a light, luminescent one for the night and a weighted, larger one for during the day.
Experienced fishermen can handle up to three lines at a time. As the bulk of our calamari is exported to Europe, strict EU fishing standards must be upheld aboard. No other line fish besides calamari is allowed to be caught and strict protocols for freezing the fish must be implemented. Calamari is blast frozen on the boat and then glossed with seawater and transferred to a bigger freezer.
Unfortunately, this practice of ethical fishing does not happen globally. To drive the point home, Clive showed us a few videos of how calamari are caught commercially in other places using mechanical jigs. How the squid are caught and stored appears to be relatively unregulated and often standard of hygiene seem to be questionable (https://youtu.be/Blo0lZigay0?si=VffUVYPcC2yubys-). For an animal that only breeds once in its lifetime, there is concern over depleting resources.
Squid dissection
Another highlight was watching Clive dissect a squid, explaining the body parts and function as he went. Each squid is prepared by hand in his kitchen (during the busy seasons he hires people specifically for this job). The shiny membranes, the mantle that looks like fairy wings, the birdlike beak, the perfect little suckers on the tentacles and the ink pod with its black gold – nature’s attention to detail and magnificent beauty at every point is mind-blowing and humbling.
Local vs imported calamari
To demonstrate the superior quality of local calamari, Clive prepared some calamari from China and Argentina. He prepared each sample identically and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc was used as a palette cleanser between tastes. Without giving too much away, suffice it to say that it was obvious how far superior local calamari is. We can eat it with the knowledge that it has been caught sustainably and not injected with water to bulk it up.
Many thanks to Clive and his staff at Clive’s Chokka Block restaurant for the wonderful information.
Book your tasting! Call +27 (42) 294-1615 or +27 (60) 305-0972 | Website: https://chokkablock.co.za
Pat Holme’s amazing chokka light creations
With our piqued interest in all things chokka, we have to mention one of our very talented Dune Daisies readers. Pat Holmes makes the most amazing lamps using the giant bulbs from decommissioned chokka boats. Having had a house in St Francis since 1980, Pat has watched the industry flourish and came up with the idea to recycle these lights in 2014. Over the years he has perfected his lamp-making skills and fits each light with a customised fitting and top. Every lamp is unique. In addition to hanging lights, Pat is also now making standing lamps using galvanised tubing – very chic. If you would like to see these lights, pop into Nevermind where some are up in the restaurant. Alternatively, give Pat a call at +27 (73) 1640-622 and he will undoubtedly have a creative solution for you.
Nadine's nutritious way of life
The countdown to the festive season is well underway, synonymous with mistletoe, mince pies and a multitude of calories. And if the post-season tightening of waistbands, coupled with the guilt of unobtainable New Year health plans sounds all too familiar, fear not, we have just the lady for you! Dune Daisies were lucky to chat with Nadine Lahana, dynamic health fundi and owner of Nadine Lahana Nutrition Coaching. She has just completed one of her Go Green Challenges; a sustainable, fun, interactive healthy eating course. Let’s find out more…….
DD: What inspires you about health and fitness and how long have you been involved in this realm?
Nadine: My inspiration now has evolved slightly from when I was a young mom raising a baby in Canada. I had experienced both mental and physical challenges as a result of an uneducated decision to go vegetarian. I then propelled myself into an industry with a desperate need to learn more about everything from movement mechanics to the fundamentals of foods. These days, what inspires me is the need to share the truth, to set the record straight about food and help (mostly women) develop better relationships with both food and themselves.
Knowledge is power and as long as we don’t have it, we are vulnerable to every fad that promises a “RAPID RESULT” or a “BRAND NEW YOU”.
We are ultimately sacrificing ourselves to diet culture, which inherently results in a loss of control. Each time we fail a diet (because it does not consider our own unique body or lifestyle limitations) we blame ourselves or our lack of willpower! In truth, it is the restriction of elimination that does not fit our unique lifestyle.
There is no one-size-fits-all!
DD: Can you please tell us a little bit about your workshops – who are they aimed at and what can your clients expect when they sign up?
Nadine: My workshops are aimed at anyone who has experienced the side effects of serial dieting. In the past, I hosted these workshops to a much wider audience online. Although it was exciting being a part of a global community, they lacked the intimacy of in-person contact. For this recent workshop, I changed things around and invited only 20 people into my home. Having a small group like this allows daily communication. We are all part of a WhatsApp community where we inspire each other daily with recipes and I am on hand to answer questions.
The participants are introduced to a lifestyle that includes 3 BIG words – Balance, Variety & Moderation. By learning about proper nutrition, (there is no Monday to Sunday Diet booklet), they are then armed with tools to formulate their own personal lifestyle plan. The workshop challenges each individual to create their own daily balanced meal plans, using their understanding that all macronutrients are vital to body processes and optimal wellness.
I share my simple formula for FAT-loss and vitality, my BYOG Fitness plan and we get hands on and messy with meal planning and prepping (pestos, dressings and some time saving hacks)! Not everyone is here for weight loss, however, I do dedicate a good portion to explaining the importance of understanding WEIGHT vs FAT loss.
DD: What do you love about hosting these workshops?
Nadine: I’ve always said that the power of the knowledge I have obtained through individual client challenges, and the dedicated research on each, has surpassed any certification on my wall! I absolutely love how everyone is swapping recipes, sharing emotions and ideas on our group and during our sessions. As I said, the participants are all attending for different reasons so the outcome will differ person to person. I can’t wait to hear from each of them at the end of this Challenge.
DD: What are your biggest challenges?
Nadine: Although I strongly believe that there is a solution for every barrier, one of the toughest barriers for me is dispelling the myths and misconceptions that have settled in through clever marketing and product pushing.
As Epidemiologist & Author, Tim Spector so aptly put it: “PROTEIN SELLS. FIBRE DOESN’T!”
The protein push has resulted in most people consuming twice their daily needs of protein and 95% of people are fibre deficient. This explains the focus on the unhealthy gut microbiome and sudden rise in digestive issues.
Another challenge would definitely be keeping motivation flowing through the plateau phase. Commonly, the start of any challenge is the best for focus and commitment. Once some glycogen stores are depleted, the body experiences “fight or flight” and prepares for survival. The body just wants to survive! This is where weigh scales can either make or break our day and we need to remind ourselves why we are committed to this lifestyle change. The questions are: What other choice do we have? Elimination? Starvation? Yo-yo gains and losses?
And finally, there’s budget & availability. It’s easy enough for a health professional to tell someone to eat half a ruby grapefruit for breakfast, a salad of sorrel & pine nuts for lunch and a herb encrusted fillet of Norwegian salmon on a bed of polento for supper, but the reality is that most cannot afford or do not have access to these ingredients!
DD: Can you share some success stories?
Nadine: You will have to check out my reviews on Social Media 🙂 I’m happy to say there are a lot of stories with happy endings! From clients in New York, London, Germany and Australia who had the choice of top personal trainers at their fingertips but continued to “Zoom” in to my little studio every week, claiming my method produces the best results, to my lovely locals who send me heart warming reviews telling me that “in all my years of serial dieting, this is the first time I feel in control!” I think the most rewarding are those who haven’t just noticed the losses but the immense gains!
“I have suffered from eating disorders since my early teens and well into my 30’s. I have always had a low self body image and struggled terribly with finding a way to eat that makes me happy. So the biggest lesson I have experienced from your go green has been to have a good relationship with food….wow this has made me think completely differently!!
Now knowing that I do not have to count calories all day long….meal prepping and making food look colourful and delicious and not sacrificing, but substituting.
It has sparked an excitement inside me…..and I cannot wait to enjoy the journey of change ahead of me. Thanks you so very much, you are an amazing role model for wanting to live a healthier and happier life.”
Niks G
One particular favourite story features my Mom. After being diagnosed with a multitude of ailments from gall stones to diverticulitis and hiatus hernia, she came with my dad to St Francis to live with us. After her diagnoses, she came into the kitchen and said “I’ll have what she’s having!” This meant I had the challenge of spending a lot more time in the kitchen than I would have liked (no, weirdly enough it’s not my favourite place to be), churning out plant based burgers and Buddha bowls, smoothies and transforming a palate accustomed to fatty cold meats, full English fry ups, daily sweet treats, goose fat and other sources of metabolic mayhem! By the time she left for France, she had lost 20kgs and gained a whole new way of eating. Sadly, having left it a little late, her new diet was born out of absolute necessity rather than choice.
When we subject our bodies to severe overload or restriction, it takes a toll on our organs and disrupts our second brain. When we severely restrict calories then return to normal eating, we discover the frustration of not being able to shift excess weight.
Why? Simply put, we have severed signaling from neurons to working parts and we are left with an inability to UTILIZE calories as efficiently as we once could. So inevitably, we STORE. I don’t want other people to experience this.
DD: Do you have any inspirational texts/people that motivate you?
Nadine: I am very motivated by anyone who has passion and pursues goals (it isn’t easy to stay focussed when life happens despite our plans!). I am ashamed to say that I have only just latched onto the world of Podcasts. I have always been so careful of who I tune into for research or simple listening pleasure – there is just SO much quackery out there. Everyone is a Health or Lifestyle Coach these days. I have a daily challenge updating my Social Media and managing a fast scroll past ‘6-pack wielding so-called Influencers’ feeding the public utter &*!$. However, I am so grateful to have found this handful of geniuses who have, in my ripe old(er) age, given me a boost of confidence.
Keep your ears out for:
✅ Dr Andrew Huberman of the Huberman Lab. A Neuroscientist and Podcaster.
✅ Dan Beuttner. Aside from Guiness record holding cyclist, Founder and Author of the Blue Zones. He sums it all up nicely in his Documentary- Live to 100!
✅ Tim Spector. Softly spoken Epidemiologist and founder of Zoe, a personalised nutrition company that works at the intersection of food, lifestyle and health.
DD: How can we sign up for your next workshop?
Nadine: You will have to follow me on Social Media to keep an eye out for dates of my upcoming 2024 Challenges.
INSTAGRAM:
FACEBOOK:
DD: What do you love most about SFB?
Nadine: St Francis teaches you very quickly that downsizing is actually upgrading when it comes to your wellness. I love that my grown up children, who we once feared would suffer the boredom of village life, refuse to accept offers to go overseas for the holidays and explore, for fear of missing out on the St Francis vibe!
ARWC 2023 - It's a wrap!
A couple of months ago, the Dune Daisies had never heard of the concept of Adventure Racing, let alone met a real-life racer in the flesh. And now, as we sit in DD HQ sipping our coffee and mulling over the past few weeks’ events, we feel a little bit chuffed (and an awful lot honoured), to have experienced a snippet of the amazing, adrenaline accelerating world of the Adventure Racing World Champs. Seen it, blogged about it, and got the gear (which is fabulous, thank you) and have come away with a radically different view on life and its challenges (we’ll never moan about a 5km run in the wind ever again after what these athletes have been through). We feel humbled and motivated, inspired and awakened to all that life has to offer – with the added bonus of having made some new friends.
We didn’t take part in the gruelling, take-you-to-your-limits, 800km endurance race, but we did meet some amazing people along the way; from volunteers, participants, race organisers to supporters. We’d like to honour all who made this event truly unforgettable – and share with you some AR moments that may have slipped through the social media net ;).
Team 66: Celts Endurance – on bonding, buckled wheels & best podium finish
We enjoyed the bike sections most – especially when we teamed up with a Spanish team and sang songs to keep us going through the night. Any song where we knew two words was good enough! Then one of our teammates fell asleep and rode head on into a barrier, buckling his wheel. Luckily, we managed to bounce up and down on the wheel to straighten it out and cycle the next 60 kms to the next stop.
Before we entered the finishing stretch to the Resort, we all got into the sea. It was really emotional. We were crying and telling each other what this race meant to us. Everyone is on a personal journey. Experiencing this together and finishing the race was amazing. Robbie was the first South African home, and the Resort staff got up onto the podium and danced with us – we even got a standing ovation!
Team 75: Expenature France Sud Raid – on portage parties, pies and magnetic mishaps
In the kayak section, it was so hard to decide which side to get out and it was just before the Dark Zone (mandatory halt in racing during the night for safety reasons). Everyone seemed to be having portage parties (probably not the kind of ‘parties’ you and I are used to!) and I ended up carrying someone else’s boat up river to where we were going to stay for the night! When I realised the mistake, I had to carry it all the way back again. Nothing quite like doing extra carrying at that time of night!
And the pies!! We stopped at a shop and had three pies each (we were THAT hungry). We also had quite a bit of trouble with our compasses. One sent us one way, the other in a different direction – with all the glag (Irish speak for mist), we couldn’t tell which way we were meant to go. It was only three days later that we realised it was the metallic buttons on my fancy shirt that was messing up the compass readings!!
Volunteer: Carmen Hamilton – on transition tents, paddle palaver and weekly Weetbix
I was constantly amazed by the positive morale at transition tents. Volunteers would be dead tired by the time teams came in (after all the preps to make sure their transition would be comfortable), yet they would always welcome them with huge smiles and words of encouragement. At Transition 6, competitors arrived absolutely exhausted, but once in the tent, it wasn’t long before you heard them chatting and laughing with other teams, comparing how often they fell off their kayaks into the river. A Swedish volunteer commented that ‘this is not a transition tent, it is a circus tent!’, describing the atmosphere brilliantly. In another situation, a team had lost their paddles and their support member commented that ‘city boys can’t swim like farm boys can!’
I have absolutely loved this experience and learned so much, even that I can survive on only biltong and Weetbix for 2 days!
THE BIKE WASHERS’ TALE; A SHORT STORY BY M LANGLANDS
We had volunteered for Expedition Africa’s 2017 adventure race and again in 2020, so we thought we knew what to expect this time around. Were we ever wrong! The only remaining volunteer spot was bike washing at Transition 7. Ah well, how hard could it be? We set out to recruit some extra helpers; a couple of brave hearts, both of them medical doctors, to join our nucleus of three, and the game was on. It turned out that TP7 was just outside Steytlerville, a Karoo guest farm, and the first competitors were expected there on the Sunday. So we left St Francis on Saturday, in the rain, to Steytlerville, only to find that the farm was cut off from the world by a river in spate. So instead of camping in the rain we spent the night in a Steytlerville B&B. And patronised the pub in the Royal Hotel. Definitely no complaints from us.
The river subsided to its normal flow during the night and Sunday morning saw us putting up our tents at the guest farm and getting into our bike-washing kit – gumboots, rain gear, rubber gloves and ARWC tee shirts. We reported for duty and staff from the Coimbra Bike Shop in St Francis, our bosses, lost no time in showing us to our wash bay. We were taken through the bike wash process – first a spray down with bike cleaner, then a hose down with a pressure hose, then a wash with soapy water and a final rinse – and we were ready for business.
The first team didn’t arrive till early afternoon, the formidable Swedish Armed Forces – moving calmly and unhurriedly but wasting no time. Their bikes were caked in mud, after the previous day and night of rain, so it was a good test of our newly-learned skills. The weather, fortunately, was kind from Sunday onwards and we enjoyed meeting Danie Craven’s grandson and namesake, the current owner of Noorspoort, who put all the farm’s facilities to work for the race. His smiling face and cheerful attitude made it a very happy transition point – although the competitors were probably too exhausted to fully appreciate it. When we left on the Wednesday we were asked to give a few people a lift back to St Francis. This was a great opportunity to talk to this special breed of people, adventure racers, and find out how they tick. Their motto seems to be ‘if you are lucky enough to have the facility to run, cycle, paddle and orientate – use it!’
And that is the story of the most over-qualified and least experienced bike washing team in South Africa (Inèz Rossouw, Jeanette Kriel, Ken and Mandy McGregor, and Maggie Langlands).
Farm owner: Ruan Lamphrecht of Doringkloof Bushcamp – on flame grilled food, bakkie braais & hundreds of hamburgers
“It was a privilege to be part of such an event and we had over 500 people pass through our farm. We prepared more food than we ever imagined possible: 300 hamburgers, 300 boerewors rolls & 250 portions of curry & rice!” We at Dune Daisies particularly liked the double tot options available 😉
The essence of true adventure racers: Absoluraid Capganguise Team 77
St Francis Bay residents, including Dune Daisies, have watched in awe as the best endurance athletes in the world have pushed their bodies, minds and souls to breaking point, all in the name of adventure racing. There have been tears, trench foot, torn muscles, technical issues and treacherous mountain traverses; not to mention sleep monsters, stormy nights and sodden equipment. Surely this cannot be ‘fun’? Which begs the question, why do they push themselves to such extremes?
It may be that adventure racers possess the ability to transform each of these challenges into life lessons. Or it could also be that many of the competitors we chatted to were remarkably humble. World-class competitors who have long since dropped their egos along a dusty road to make way for the incredible teamwork required to survive the elements. And let’s not forget the humour – wherever adventure racers are, you are bound to hear a joke or wry comment, using humour to uplift a tricky situation. Whatever the magic ingredient, it is something so vital, so alluring, that it can anoint mere mortals with the ability to go deeper, further and with more humility and wisdom than we would ever hope to possess.
Sometimes there are parameters that you cannot control in this type of race.
Chiara
Curious to gain a deeper understanding of this most unique of human species, we chatted to a team that grew close to our hearts during this event (and not only because the lone woman of the team, Chiara Casari must be the most glamourous, inspirational – read: aeronautical engineer – chick on the AR circuit!).
They first landed on our DD radar on Tuesday 26th October. The distress signal came into ARWC HQ at Cape St Francis Resort at around 14.35hrs on Day 6.
Team 77, Absoluraid Capganguise from Toulouse, France, were in trouble – 120 hours into the most gruelling adventure racing world championship. One of their teammates, Yannick Perrin, was vomiting and weak. They were unable to move from their position deep in the Kouga Mountain wilderness and were out of options. On a blustery, unforgiving windswept expanse of rock and fynbos, Team 77 made the heart-breaking decision to retire from the competition. Aiming for a top 5 podium finish, their hopes had crumbled.
Yannick told DD that by that stage, for him, it was actually a ‘really easy’ decision to stop. ‘I was ill,’ Yannick explained, ‘we waited almost 10 hours to sleep and we came back again into the race. The following night, Johann Thomas & Lionel Villeneuve also fell ill, but we still managed to ride for another 5/6 hours.’ But then, ‘Johann became really, really ill; he was shaking. We had to stop. You just cannot fight against this type of thing. When you are tired or when the track is difficult, you can handle it, you can fight, you can manage the mental toll. But when it is your health – it is too difficult.’ He joked that in the next race, they would, ‘have both an orienteerer and a doctor in the team!’
Back to the inhospitable mountain. Calls were made between emergency staff and nearby local landowners. Byron Le Roux from Baviaans Lodge headed out to their last logged location. He found Chiara, Yannick, Johann and Lionel and brought them back to the comfort we take for granted – food, shelter, safe drinking water. The next day, Anton (a Dune Daisies husband and dad), together with his three cows on their way to market, transported the team back to the Cape St Francis Resort.
The things that you remember after a trip are not standing on the summit but what went on while you were on the route.
Mo Anthoine, ‘To the summit.’
By 16.00hrs on Wednesday all three men had to be taken to a local doctor for emergency treatment. Chiara stayed behind to support Lionel’s daughter, who had flown out from France to welcome her father across the finish line. This dream was now replaced by the urgent wish that her dad would be okay.
Family back home were kept updated with pictures and reports from the doctor’s rooms. Chiara explained that they have a huge team of supporters, all on a Whatsapp group for this event. ‘Our relatives and even non-sporty friends follow the race closely. Teammates from our club in Toulouse (founded in 2016 by Lionel) who understand the topography, translate what is happening to our other supporters; why we sleep, why we have stopped and the benefits of different route choices.’
Chiara’s parents are ardent supporters, even joining the team when they competed in Croatia, whilst Yannick’s wife has faith that he, and his teammates, ‘can handle difficult situations.’ Clearly Team 77, and most other racing teams, could not manage this sport’s testing mental and physical tolls without unwavering help from friends and family.
Fortunately, by the following morning, all four team members were better, well-rested and recovered, and officially off our worry list. By that stage, they were already reminiscing about the high points of their adventure, which included spectacular sunrises and big tortoises (not often seen in and around Toulouse). One favourite was, ‘when we arrived in the dunes and saw the sea for the first time, and then ran in the sand dunes.’
They were all unanimous that the Eastern Cape had, ‘better scenery than Europe.’ They planned to end their time in South Africa enjoying the wildlife in Addo and various other game reserves. This tight-knit foursome, who not only race together but also party and holiday with each other, are clearly well-versed in making the most of every moment, race and adventure that comes their way. However, they were not quite yet ready to think about their next race. Give them a day or two and we are sure they will be back training, their sights set on yet another challenge.
You didn’t beat me. You merely finished in front of me. Hal Higdon, ‘To the summit.’
The Cape St Francis Resort - going the extra, adventurous mile.
During the ARWC 2023, the Cape St Francis Resort was a hive of activity, packed to its maximum and overflowing with foreign athletes, media teams and race supporters. Hosting an adventure race is a highly complex endeavour and without a doubt, the Resort nailed it. Having run the Expedition Africa race in 2017, they knew what was ahead and what was required. Ideally suited geographically for this type of race format, the Resort is close enough (or far enough) from the Baviaans and the Karoo, both suitably contrasting in biodiversity and terrain. Additionally, our challenging coastline with dunes and rocks also ensured that racers would have to ‘flex their muscles.’ With the Resort’s perfect facilities, restaurants and accommodation, plus their great team dedicated to promoting the area and sporting codes, it was a no-brainer for Heidi and Stefan Muller to host the event in Cape St Francis.
Arranging accommodation for all the visiting teams was easy compared with the logistics that accompany an event of this kind. Imagine housing about 400 foreigners in Cape St Francis, each of their very expensive bicycles and every team’s giant black box. This doesn’t yet include all the additional bodies – volunteers, media and supporters.
For those of you who aren’t familiar with how an adventure race works, everyone gets dropped together at the starting point of the race. Then they must make it through various legs, in this case over 800km, stopping at checkpoints along the way and ultimately finding their way to the final stop. This year’s world championship ended at the Resort. The first teams returned after about 118 hours – the last teams came 100 hours later! This meant that for those 100 hours there always had to be someone around to welcome incoming teams, even when they arrived in the wee hours of the morning. Additionally, those teams needed to be fed and shown their new accommodation (most teams checked out during the race and during that period the Resort welcomed 6 tour buses – so, it was business as usual). Yet it all worked seamlessly, thanks to the incredible staff and management of the Cape St Francis Resort.
The Resort staff were absolutely amazing and welcomed each team with heartfelt singing and dancing. For many, including Anita Lennox (CEO of the Resort since 2001), this was the highlight of the event. No matter what time of the day and night teams arrived, they were given a warm Eastern Cape reception. And the singing didn’t stop there! The Resort staff added a real South African flavour to the opening event held at the St Francis Links by singing and dancing in the flag parade as the participants walked up to be greeted by praise singers and drums. They have been a constant source of joy during this world championship event. And when the teams started returning from their epic adventure, they were there to guide them to the finish line and podium, celebrating every step of the way.
We were lucky enough to chat with Danni Shaw (née Malherbe) shortly before the race began. Her family has owned the Resort for many years and were all very much involved in this event.
DD: You have had personal experience with adventure racing?
DS: We were introduced to adventure racing in 2017 when we hosted the 500km South African Adventure Race. My sister competed in that event as part of the Resort team, so I have had personal experience with her with the sport.
DD: How long in advance did you start preparing for this event?
DS: We started preparing for it about 18 months ago, so it’s been quite a while in the making.
DD: What has been the biggest logistical challenge of hosting the ARWC?
DS: Finding enough beds and organising transport have been a challenge. We have had to overflow out of the Resort which has been tricky as most of the guests are foreign and want to be on site as they don’t have transport. Arranging everyone’s transport from the airport as well as to the village to go shopping or visit the other restaurants in town has also been a logistical manoeuvre. Stefan and Heidi’s work has been figuring out the route and liaising with the landowners and getting the necessary permission to through these properties. At the moment, their biggest concern is the transition zones and getting all the bikes and boxes to these positions.
DD: We see that your staff have been dancing and singing day and night to give the guests a warm welcome. How has the atmosphere been at the Resort and have you been surprised at your staff’s dancing abilities?
DS: We have not been too amazed by how well our staff dance – we knew this before! What has surprised us has been their charisma and how much they have enjoyed showing off South African culture and welcoming all the foreigners. Their enthusiasm has been massive and the way that they have embraced people being interested in their culture, and our African way of dressing, dancing and singing has been phenomenal.
DD: Have any menu items stood out as being more popular than others?
DS: In terms of food, people have different ways of preparing for races. Some people have been eating a lot of protein-heavy dishes such as steaks and fish and others have been carbo-loading with pastas.
DD: Have you had any unusual requests from adventure racers?
DS: Other than a few language barriers, there haven’t been anything other than people trying to figure out their logistics.
DD: How are you preparing for their return to the Resort? Are you anticipating a lot of parties? Especially with the rugby World Cup?
DS: Teams have placed orders for the food they want when they arrive back after the race. We will be dot watching so we will know when a team is about to arrive and we can have their food ready. From Wednesday or Thursday next week, the village we have created with extra tents and food trucks will be happening and should be quite festive. We have a lot of live music planned, but these guys won’t party too hard as they will be very tired. They will enjoy a bit of a celebration and some food, but they will probably want to rest.
DD: Teams have been arriving all day and night and when they return it will also be at all hours of the day. Are you getting any sleep and what are your stress levels?
DS: It has been hard work but thank goodness we have an amazing team and have worked well together. Everyone has taken turns to sleep and rest so we haven’t gotten too burnt out.
DD: Would you do it again?
DS: Definitely. It has also had an impact on the community of the St Francis area. The SPAR has had great foot traffic and I believe the biltong shop in the village was sold out. Those who helped with the overflow of guests in Cape St Francis have been fully booked. Also, many of the South African teams who have had access to transport have also stayed in the village. So I believe it has been positive for the area.
To all at the Resort: We are so proud of you and are grateful to have such a wonderful facility in our midst. Thank you for all you do for our area and for having the courage to bring an event like this to St Francis. We love you.
We have mentioned the great team at the Resort and credit must also go to Anita Lennox, who knows every aspect of managing a Resort of this size inside out. As the Resort is recognised for its sustainability practices, we chatted to her briefly about their affiliation to the Eco Atlas, Fair Trade and TravelLife Sustainability in Tourism and how they maintained their green code with an event of this size.
AL: That’s been our biggest challenge – fortunately adventure races are very aware of their environment, and this made it a lot easier (there is a zero-footprint policy in adventure racing). We have glass water bottles in the rooms as well as refill stations which helped. Obviously, the restaurants produce a lot more waste, so our earthworms are not complaining and Kouga recycling has been very busy.
A local adventure racer in our dunes! Juan Oosthuizen
ARWC 2023 fever has hit the Dune Daisies and we can’t get enough of this sport. Imagine doing multiple marathon-length trail runs, cycling (often in the dark) on gravel roads through mountain passes or bush for almost 500km, a quick 60km kayak and then, just to keep things exciting, a quick abseil of about 50m in no more than 9 days.
Competitors must provide their own food and water while on the move and may not have any contact or help from anyone. Finding drinkable water is a priority for teams as staying hydrated is vital for success. This can be quite a challenge in unfamiliar surroundings or water-deprived areas. Before the race, each team packs boxes of only 25kg – holding provisions and appropriate gear for the various legs of the race. They can access these boxes at transition points which is also where they pick up or drop off their bicycles. If something breaks, they have to work together to fix it.
As if this wasn’t enough of a challenge, teams only get the maps for the next leg of their journey once the previous one has been completed. They get a topographical map and a compass and must figure out the route as they go. There are checkpoints along the way to keep them on track and failure to stop at a checkpoint can cause a team to be disqualified. The use of technology is prohibited. The only communication allowed besides with their teammates is to talk to a shopkeeper to purchase food or water.
The teams who want to come in the top ten generally sleep on the side of the road for an hour or two when they cannot carry on any further. There is a lot of talk about ‘sleep monsters’ who visit when lack of sleep delirium kicks in. Competitors are challenged at every angle possible – physically, mentally and emotionally. All daily comforts are stripped away, and they have to reach their goal together, only as strong as the weakest team member.
As this is the world championship, teams have flown in from all over the world (about 40 countries). The top-ranked team is the Swedish Armed Forces, but the Estonian team is said to be close on their heels. French, South African, Spanish, American, Brazilian and Kiwi teams are all in the top ten.
Among all these top contenders is one of our own. A lad whose family lives in St Francis, Juan Oosthuizen from the Truffle Hunters (#15). He is a bio-kineticist and Pilates instructor who has two practices in Pretoria. Since his parents moved to St Francis in 2021, he has spent a lot of time on our trails on both bike and foot. We were lucky enough to catch up with him before he embarked on the race, and he gave us some wonderful insight.
DD: What do you think will be the biggest challenge for you in this race?
JO: Sleep deprivation will definitely be the hardest part about race, it will be the longest I have gone without a full night’s sleep. Your boundaries are really pushed without a full night’s sleep, and it is hard to maintain mental stability. I have done adventure races before of a few hundred kms and long bike races, but nothing this far before. This race is 800kms and it will be a real challenge for me. Having to deal with your eyes closing while you are cycling or when you start to hallucinate or fall asleep in the dark is scary. I am also one of the team navigators while we are cycling, so I need to keep us on track and going to the right destination, all the while staying motivated and positive. My role in the team is also as packhorse when the others are taking strain, I need to help by lightening their load and possibly carrying their packs or towing them.
DD: Do you think your knowledge of the area will give you an advantage?
JO: It will definitely help, even though I am not familiar with all the areas. Just knowing where the mountain is and where the climbs will be will help with pacing and ensuring that we are on the right track. Hopefully, this will also help keep everyone calm and peaceful. Problems start when you get agitated thinking you might be lost. One of our other team members, Andrea is from the Port Elizabeth vicinity, and I am sure that if we start in the area of the dunes up the coast as I suspect we will, her knowledge will help us.
DD: What will your last meal before the race be?
JO: My last meal will probably be a good lasagne – something warm and starchy with some protein. Most likely it will be the last warm thing we eat until after the race. On the course, we eat race bars, nuts, dried fruit, meal replacements and energy gels. We will try and eat as much wholesome food as possible, but it’s not easy when you can only pack 4.7kg of food and clothing per box. Most of the food needs to be dry as it will stand in the sun. It could also rain and dry food does better. We each have 7 packs of food for the transitions, so that should keep us going. So, I’m looking forward to my beef lasagne tonight and possibly also some malva pudding or lemon meringue.
DD: What are you most excited about?
JO: For me, it’s just about being alive and free. Having the freedom to do things like this is special. Sometimes we get stuck in the world and its materialism; grafting just to reach a certain status or level of financial well-being. Adventure racing is about being free and living in the wilderness and getting a sense of simplicity. It’s also about appreciating the other competitors and your teammates. This is an opportunity to be present.
Being out there brings me back to earth, it’s where I feel most alive. That’s why I come back to these events because you feel alive when you’re in it and afterwards you feel that you can conquer the world.
It’s a special feeling that you can’t explain to someone unless you are truly there in the moment. There might also be moments that are not so nice, like when you are ice cold and all you have is the people around you. They are the ones that are going to keep you happy and alive. We will also have the thrill of knowing that we are seeing and experiencing things that no one else has. It will be exhilarating to be in untamed places like those in the Karoo. I cannot wait to express myself out there and live like a free man.
DD: How well do you know your team members?
JO: I am pretty close to my teammates and we know each other well. Franco and I have done a few races together, we also did some volunteer work on the Sky Race. He’s the co-captain and navigator. Damon is actually living in the UK although he was born in South Africa. I haven’t really met him yet other than on Zoom calls. He’s going to be our captain and navigator and I think we are going to get along well. He’s awesome to be around and always creates a good atmosphere. They are the founding members of the Truffle Hunters. Andrea is a PE local and is an excellent cyclist. She has done some Cape Epics and came fourth in the TransBaviaans. She will really be able to help us get to the top of our game when it comes to cycling. I believe she will help keep us calm psychologically – women tend to have the ability to do that. She also knows the area quite well.
I think we are a dynamic team and will be a strong dark horse in this race. We hope to finish in the top thirty, anything above that will be a bonus. Even though I think we are strong contenders, our priority is to finish together with warm hearts.
Meet Camila Nicolau - top female adventure racer!
With the 2023 Adventure Racing World Champs around the corner, teams are gearing up to start their big challenge. Anything can happen during the race, and they need to be prepared for every scenario. Besides getting all their equipment in order, transition boxes need to be packed at 25kgs each, topography maps studied, and the area scoured on Google Earth. Strategies for coping with the intense physical and mental challenge that they are about to face have to be reviewed and absorbed – as little as possible should be left to chance.
Amidst all this activity, Camila Nicolau, one of the top female adventure racers in the world, graciously agreed to spend an hour with us to tell us more about her journey to the top of this awe-inspiring sport.
DD: Camila, adventure racing is not a common choice of sport for an athlete, what first attracted you to it and how long have you been racing?
CN: My mother! I started adventure racing twenty years ago because of her. My first sport was white-water kayaking. The owner of the rafting company did adventure racing and was always trying to get me involved. My mother had already started racing and was also tried. At the time, I didn’t enjoy aerobic exercise much so didn’t even consider it, but she persuaded me to join her on a race as part of her support crew. Back then, each team had to get their own boxes to the transitions so there were always many other people involved who had to get the boxes from one point to the next. I loved the whole experience and decided to give it a try and started training. I studied architecture at university, so had the necessary skills to navigate and read maps. As this is a big part of the race, as well as the kayaking, I just had to improve my other skills. In 2003, I did my first race and thoroughly enjoyed it. I did a short race with two of my university friends. We made the top ten (but from the bottom)! Neither of my teammates ever raced again, but I was hooked.
In 2005, I did my first expedition race and since then I have done two or three a year. There is so much to learn from this sport. This is what really attracts me to it. It’s a good way to test yourself as it’s incredibly hard. It’s like a laboratory where you put yourself into stressful situations with other people – a social challenge.
I think this reflects in your life. One becomes so much more tolerant and you know how to deal with difficult issues and other people. The mental strain is immense, and the race is so intense, all the while having to make things work with your team. They say it’s like living 5 years in 5 days because you experience so much every time you do this kind of thing.
The team that wins is not the team that doesn’t make mistakes, but rather the team that knows how to deal with problems more efficiently and can work their way through. It is impossible to spend over 100 hours together and not to slip up. No two races are ever the same. For example, Iron Man is a very hard race and to do it you create a formula to be successful. In adventure racing, you need to create 100 formulas to allow for all the variables.
The training before is not only physical but also mental. Physically, you have to be very fit. I train every day, usually alternating running with cycling. I run about 15-80 km a session and towards the end of my training period, I run more than cycle as the trekking part is more demanding. At least with cycling, you can relax a little when you go downhill, but it’s not like that with trekking.
DD: What is your strength in your team?
CN: I am the team captain, so I am very organised and take responsibility for everything except navigating. During the race, I know that the beginning of the race is always hard for me. So, during this period, I get the lightest pack and less gear. From around the middle to the end of the race, when the others may be struggling more, especially psychologically, I find my strength. It seems that in adventure racing this is a skill that more women are good at, and they can motivate their other team members and keep everyone together as things get harder towards the end. This is when I take the heavier backpack and try to support them more mentally.
DD: Is your team for this race an old team or a newly formed one?
CN: Three of us in this team have raced together for about two years. Obviously, my husband and I have been together for years, but Jonas only recently joined us even though he has been racing for more than 15 years. Jay comes from Thailand and is also an old racing friend of ours, like Jonas. We always had good synergy with both of them and they have the experience and the skills to match ours or complement our skills, so we feel very good about our team.
DD: How do you find the right team?
CN: Finding the right team is very hard and it takes years to get it right. It’s like finding four puzzle pieces that fit perfectly. The balance in the team is important and everyone needs to be good at different things. My husband and I always race together, we also train together. But Jonas lives on the other side of Brazil and Jay is from Thailand, so we don’t train together. But, because we have never all raced in this group, we decided to come to South Africa ten days early to spend some time together as a team and talk through our strategies.
DD: What is the biggest challenge in the race?
CN: The start is definitely the hardest part for me. The first two to six hours are difficult because everyone is trying to get ahead and moving as fast as they can. Personally, I don’t understand why they waste so much energy in the beginning and go at a pace they can’t sustain, but we have to keep up or else we will lose time. As I mentioned before, my team understands this and supports me through this.
DD: Have there been any race experiences that have stood out for you?
CN: Every race is different, even after twenty years of racing. I started racing very young. I am 38 now, but the average age for this kind of race is 42. I think the wisdom that comes with age and the ability to strategize really helps.
DD: Do you have any sponsors or get any funding from Brazil to do the race?
CN: We don’t have any sponsors, but we get some help from the government through various programs, these paid for our flight to South Africa. Finding funding is our biggest challenge in Brazil.
DD: We know that you and your husband also have a business together. Could you tell us more about that?
CN: We coach people to prepare them to do adventure racing. This involves getting them physically strong enough for the race and getting them mentally ready for the challenges they will face in a race. Our program is all online. We set up a daily training schedule for them based on the intensity they would like and the timeframe they have until the race. Once a month, we check in to talk about their progress and then also cover topics such as strategy, nutrition, hydration and mental approach. The other topics are as important as being physically fit.
DD: Is this your first time in South Africa?
CN: Yes, it is and we love it so far. We haven’t had much chance to see too much but I am sure we will see a lot during the race. It’s such a great way to see a country and get a taste of the culture.
DD: Is there anything that worries you about the race being in South Africa?
CN: There is nothing about the landscape or environment that we are worried about, but it’s communicating with people in shops, for example, that is different. On another race, we went into a shop to buy water and they gave us a bag of water (not a bottle). It was completely unexpected, but we had to deal with it.
DD: When you finish the race, how do you feel?
CN: First you sleep for about 16 hours, then you wake up to eat and hydrate and then you sleep again. This continues for about a week. My husband says you resort back to being a baby. This time, we have to do a presentation at the conference which is actually making me more nervous than the race. I think they will have to bring in a couch for me to speak from! Thankfully, it’s a topic we deal with every day so it will be easy for us to speak about it.
TEAM BRAZIL MULTISPORT 2022
Navel worx - the only South African supplier of essential oil remedies for the navel.
Dune Daisies are excited to introduce you to another one of St Francis’ fabulous entrepreneurs, Cecielia Grant. A few years ago, she started a business called navel worx that makes Ayurvedic inspired blends of essential oils which are applied on the navel. Each blend is a remedy for range of specific ailments and has proven efficacy.
DD: How did you wind up living in St Francis Bay?
CC: I had been coming here on holidays to break away from the rush of Gauteng and then bought a unit at the port. St Francis was my holiday destination. My core business, although I currently do this to a lesser degree, is corporate incentive travel where I take groups overseas. In 2020, when travel suddenly died globally I started spending more and more time in St Francis and eventually decided to relocate.
DD: How did navel worx begin for you? What’s the story behind its inception?
CG: As I mentioned, I was in the travel industry and worked extensively abroad. On my trips, I enjoyed visiting various spas throughout the world as I found it a quick way to recover after a journey. Check into a spa and a day later you already feel better. It was in these spas that I was introduced to Ayurvedic medicines. The birth of my granddaughter in 2020 reminded me of the navel and the umbilical cord. I put these two ideas together, (Ayurvedic medicine and the navel) and started looking for a product that focused on essential oils for the navel. When I couldn’t find anything, I decided that this might be just the perfect niche for me.
DD: What a special beginning! Could you give our readers a little more information about the benefits of using essential oils in your navel and what navel worx does?
CG: The core lies in our recipes. There are ten of them and they are all based on Ayurvedic medicine. We use ancient recipes that have stood the test of time. Using navel oils is not a new idea and we did not come up with these blends, rather they are tried and tested Ayurvedic remedies used to treat certain ailments.
To create the most effective and potent product, we are very careful and mindful about how we source our oils. Each oil is of the highest quality possible, is 100% pure and produced under stringent conditions. To respect the recipes implicitly, we import these oils from all over the world. Unfortunately, there are no local oils that match any of the recipes yet.
DD: When we received our package from navel worx, we were blown away by the beauty and attention to detail in the presentation.
CG: We are working on having all our packaging being as natural as possible and to give back as much as we can. We really enjoy using local people to do things and even sending plantable packaging with seasonal seeds. Nowadays, people aren’t getting the shopping experience, so we are trying to stimulate the senses when you receive a navel worx order. Each package is individually scented based on the oils ordered.
DD: What would you say makes navel worx unique?
CG: The application of pure essential oils, that are not compromised in any way, in and around your navel makes navel worx special. There is not another South African brand that has created a product specifically for navel application.
It’s also about taking a moment for yourself. Every morning, I use RESTORE. I don’t leave the house without it as it feeds my skin from the inside. We should all do this as we spend money putting creams on our skin but that only treats the first three layers. The moment the cream is gone, our skin is dry again and we need to reapply it. We should feed our skin from the inside.
DD: Could you tell us a little more about the application process? Is there an ideal way to apply the oils?
CG: We have different ways of presenting our oils at a spa. A popular option is to include a navel ritual as an add on experience after a head massage. The experience begins by warming the belly button with a heated cloth and then applying a few drops of the oil in the navel. The scent of the oils is activated by the heat and a gentle massage. The main thing is that the skin around your navel absorbs all the oil. Essentially, you can do it any way that works for you. If you have a little roller and are feeling stressed out at work, reach for your CALM and rub it around your navel (making sure none gets on your clothing) and take a deep breath. You will feel better in moments.
It’s also a lovely ritual to have as a family. If you have a teenager that can’t study or focus, or they are nervous and restless, take a moment with them and apply some REST oil on their navel. This small ritual shows affection and is a way of communicating that you care.
DD: Navel worx has a unique product and the idea of navel oils might be quite foreign to many people. Who is your intended target audience?
CG: Honestly, the world! But more specifically, the Indian market is an easy audience for us as they are familiar with Ayurveda. They know what it’s all about. My current community is a difficult market, the Afrikaans boere seuns. To try and convince them that they should use a gentlemen’s oil and include it into a daily self-care routine is quite a hard sell. Their response is generally, “Really?”
But I do think every man should use it. A lot of people in my social circles are from farming communities or game lodges. At some point in their lives, almost all of them have been bitten by a tick. They don’t realize that even if you didn’t get tick bite fever, that little tick causes awful bacteria that grows and stays in your liver. So, as you age and carry on with your life, you have ailments and issues and have no idea what is causing them. Meanwhile, it’s these bacteria in your liver that are responsible. The myrrh and frankincense in our GENTLEMAN’s oil kills that bacteria. My uncles have been using this oil for a few years. I see them once or twice annually and they have said to me that they are not sure why, but they are feeling better. So, I ask if they are using the oils.
They respond with the usual “yes, yes, yes, we use it daily.”
They are not so spoilt that their wives to put it on for them, but they really seem to be feeling better than they have in years.
I always chuckle to myself after their visits as I have my range of oils in the guest bathroom, and I can tell that they have been trying them during their stay.
It’s really very similar to when you take vitamins or supplements. Why do we take them and why do we believe in them? This is like another thing we do to enhance our health and becomes part of our routine. It’s not a quick fix, but with regular use it will make a difference.
People who use IGNITE to slim down see differences in their measurements over time. As we get older, we tend to battle with hormonal issues and weight gain. IGNITE will help your body change to where your sugar cravings are less and the taste of sugar changes. Your digestive system will become more regular, and you’ll probably drink more water. It essentially kickstarts your metabolism.
DD: Cecielia, this almost sounds too easy. A friend of ours commented that if it’s that easy and all you must do is rub oil on your belly, then why aren’t we all doing it?
CG: The thing is that it not a quick fix. You are more likely to lose centimetres before you lose weight. Even in a week, you see a difference.
DD: Do you have any tips for people using navel oils for the first time, other than using it consistently?
CG: Do not to spoil your clothing. You don’t want to wear a beautiful nightie and have it stained with navel worx ginger oil. Make sure it is well absorbed before you put clothing against it.
Enjoy it. For some of the blends, you will only see a difference after continuous use. But others will show immediate results. CALM will calm you down and REST will put you to sleep. It definitely works. Our tummy oil, EASE, is wonderful if you feel bloated or have eaten something that is making you uncomfortable. You get quick results with these oils. Ultimately, using essential oils should be a way of life. It’s a part of your own self-care and loving yourself.
DD: The instructions on the card in the package say that you can’t use more than one oil at a time.
CG: Mixing the oils will disturb the balance of the remedy that you’re using. So, wait at least 12 hours before using a different remedy. I am 65 years old and worry about feeding my skin the way I should, so I use RESTORE as part of my daily routine. I also have rheumatoid arthritis. RELIEF is great for this and something I use every day. I don’t use any other medication at all and can still move everything!
There are also different ways to use the oils. For example, at Christmastime when I know there will be pudding and all kinds of other things that are delicious, but not great for you, I start using IGNITE to boost my metabolism. But I still never mix the remedies, just like you don’t drink tea and coffee together!
DD: Can you share any success stories?
CG: We have a lot. The easiest success was from our GENTLEMEN’s oil which eased the symptoms of gout for many men. I’ve also had people come back after using RELIEF saying it has cured their gout. IGNITE has also helped a lot of people shrink. Of course, weight gain from hormonal issues is one thing and takes longer to manage, but if your weight gain is caused by bad habits, IGNITE works quickly.
DD: Where are the oils sourced? You mentioned that you were working towards getting your packaging as sustainable as possible, we wondered whether all the oils are certified organic.
CG: I’m not quite there yet. I’d love to work towards that and be able to tell you exactly where the oil comes from. But, now, I’m buying from wholesalers. I still take the trouble to find out where the oil is produced because I wouldn’t want to use Canadian spruce oil, for example, that’s cut down a forest to harvest the trees.
The only problem with sourcing only organic oils is cost. For example, I’ve just bought Roman chamomile, which is very precious. It comes from France and costs R48,000 per litre. The moment it arrives in South Africa, I pay all the taxes which adds to the cost and makes it very pricey. For that reason, I use wholesalers who can tell me where it comes from. This way I know the farm but don’t buy directly from them. I would like to get there eventually though.
DD: Do you have you any tips for those wishing to start a business?
CG: Firstly, you must have a sense of humour and believe in the product that you are selling. Realise that you are going to learn a lot more than what you ever thought you knew. Sincerity is important and pays off eventually. Just persevere.
DD: Do you have a favourite oil?
CG: RESTORE is like my multi-vitamin and I use it every day. I also use RELIEF daily. Honestly, I use them all except GROW because it makes all your hair grow (not just the ones on your head).
DD: Do you have a 5-year plan?
CG: I don’t have an official strategy, but I would like to reach a lot of people and show them that nutrition and nature will get you a lot further than what chemicals will. We are so quick to reach for that sleeping tablet, yet it has all kinds of other negative effects on our on our being. We don’t consider for a moment that just maybe nature can help.
I’d also like navel worx to be at a point that were we can show that we are giving back to Mother Earth and showing respect.
DD: You have also mentioned that you are thinking of moving your factory to St Francis Bay. Is that still your plan?
CG: Currently it is in Pretoria, but I am submitting plans and then I will definitely move it here. Our factory is not huge, it’s just a space that has to be very clean – there cannot be any dust in it. The oils are very strong, and we cannot mix more than two recipes a day as it will affect us too badly. The oils need to be heated and vibrated and then they can be blended. There are only three of us in the factory and we must always wear masks.
Creative daisies in our midst - meet Gail Petrie!
One of the many things we love about St Francis is that so many amazing people live in this relatively small community. Dune Daisies are particularly fortunate to have not only an absolutely lovely neighbour, but an exceptionally talented advertising agency director living just down the road. I bet you have noticed the beautiful pictures on our equally fabulous website! Well, Gail Petrie is the creative eye behind all of this creativity and we thought you might be interested to find out more about this local daisy blooming in our dunes.
DD: Gail, we have received many compliments for the pictures on our website and we have you to thank for them. What we really love about your pictures is that they show how well you know St Francis. Can you tell us about your history with this village?
Gail: I first came here on holiday with friends in 1981. I had such a wonderful experience that I went home and told my mom how much I loved it. She promptly organised a holiday for us, was smitten and right there and then put an offer in on our house. We moved in a year later and since then it has become the house where our family gathers. For all of us, it is a place of healing and laughter, very close to our hearts To this day, it is still the place where all the family and friends come every December.
DD: How has St Francis changed since you first started coming here in 1981?
Gail: When we first came here, we would have to drive to PE if we needed something as the only shop was the convenience store at the petrol station. All the roads were gravel and sand. But, the hotel was amazing – I wish we still had it! The community and all the holidaymakers would always get together there and everyone had a blast.
For me, the saddest thing now is how much the beach has changed in St Francis Bay. When we first started coming here there were Hobie Cats everywhere and Hobie Beach was busy. We could walk to the river mouth at high tide with about 20m of beach.
DD: When and why did you decide to move to St Francis permanently?
Gail: I moved here permanently after my divorce two and a half years ago. St Francis has always been a place of healing and peace for me, it was my getaway. I had often heard that you shouldn’t live or work in a place that you need to have a holiday from. This helped me decide that St Francis might be a good place to base myself, surrounded by nature. I also knew that my boys love coming here and that they can’t stay away for long, especially when they need some time out.
Gail Petrie Life Coaching
- Tel: (082) 375-7115
- http://gailpetriecoaching.co.za
GAP Advertising
- Creative Campaigns. Marketing Strategies. Design. Publishing. Event Management and Photography.
- Website: http://www.gap-advertising.co.za
- Email: gail@gap-advertising.co.za
Devon (25)is a computer scientist and is following his passion and working for the South African Radio Observatory (Meerkat Telescope and SKA project). He’s based in Cape Town.
Brandon (27) is a commercial fixed-wing and helicopter pilot and runs his own solar company (Lovemore Crescent is lit up thanks to Brandon).
“One of Gail’s most special moments was climbing into a plane built by my son and husband and flying over sunset rock.” GAIL
DD: What challenges have you faced working remotely or by relocating?
Gail: When I arrived here I was thrown into one of the busiest periods of my career. My biggest challenge has been making sure that I find time for me and my dog Scamp. Taking her out for a walk and spending enough time outdoors, so I try to make this a priority.
Regarding my work situation, I can’t pop into all the events I am organising, so I have to be selective in deciding when to make the trip. Other than that, it’s been amazing. If someone had told me ten years ago that I could work remotely, I would have done it then!
DD: You are a lady of many talents, you have an advertising agency, are a professional photographer and also a life coach. How have all these things played out in your life?
Gail: When I was twenty, I moved from Bloemfontein to Johannesburg on a modelling contract. After a few years, my work as an art director got the attention of the Edgars group and I ended up working for them. It was seven of the most wonderful years of my career; we worked hard, played hard, and I learned so much.
When I got married, I didn’t want to leave my kids at a creche, so went out on my own. One of the companies I had done freelance work for waited for this to happen and then scheduled a meeting with me on the first day my company opened. At the meeting, I was awarded a multi-million rand account. Not bad for the first day of business. I ended up working for them for the next ten years. Honestly, I was fortunate in that I landed many wonderful and high-profile clients, including some of the top private schools in Johannesburg. It all just fell into place. And this was in addition to L’Oreal where I was the agency for 15 years. One particularly fun project we worked on during that time was the launch of the Golden Scissor Award which became the world’s most significant ethnic haircare award. Work has been consistent over the years and I have built wonderful relationships with my clients.
During that time, I always had this feeling that I wanted to study Psychology. I got to the point where I started looking for courses that I could do in the evening, but I kept putting it off as I was so busy and was still raising my two boys. Eventually, about twelve years ago, I did an ontological life coaching course. It was life-changing and at one point I thought about giving up the agency to do life coaching. A part of the course involved doing biometric and aptitude tests. The feedback from this was that I would be most successful if I could find something that balanced my creative side with my emotional and empathetic side. This struck a chord in me and kept on going around in my head. Perhaps I didn’t have to give up on my creative side. So, I kept the agency and when I started looking at life coaching, I went at it from a creative perspective. I tried to approach my workshops creatively. How could I do the one-on-one sessions more imaginatively than just sitting and chatting? That’s when the ‘Who am I’ and the ‘Choosing Me’ workshops were born. They are based loosely on my life and the lessons that I’ve learned over the years. It’s been incredible still being able to do these things from St Francis.
DD: Can you tell us more about your workshops and life coaching?
Gail: When I was in Joburg, my life coaching workshops were with ten people. But at the moment, I am just offering one-on-one coaching with an eye on moving back to groups later. It’s basically looking at the lens we look at life through, how the things that have happened to us in life have impacted us. How we move forward and what we have learned from our experiences. And finally, making the changes necessary to live your dream life.
DD: And how are you living this?
Gail: A lot of people think that because you are a life coach, you must have it all figured out and have all the tools. But for me, it’s about continuous learning. The need to learn on a deeper level to experience things. I often think that some of the things that I’ve been through in my life have been there to teach me how to help other people in those situations.
I have found it very interesting how at different stages of your life, different people show up in the coaching. For example, after my divorce, I found I was coaching people that were in bad relationships, following that I found myself working with those battling with balancing work and life. After that, people struggling with the empty nest syndrome and then I went through a period where most of my clients had experienced a lot of trauma. That’s really how I concluded that the things we experience are all lessons.
DD: What life lessons have you learned from each of these directions?
Gail: The biggest life lesson I have learnt is to allow what is, to be. If you fight things, you bring fear into them and that never has a good outcome. Also, to get up each morning grateful for all that you have.
DD: How about as a mother?
Gail: I am so fortunate and have been blessed with having two incredible people in my life, my sons. They have taught me so much about resilience and kindness, they bring an abundance of unconditional love into my life.
My gran used to say, ‘this too shall pass.’ The lesson I learnt from that is that, it will pass. But, what lessons have we learned when it has passed?
If we don’t learn from our mistakes we keep inviting the same stories back in – the same hamster wheel spinning around. That’s how we build resilience.
DD: What has your experience been as self-employed? Would you give any words of advice to businesses starting out?
Gail: For me, it was always about following your passion, that’s something I have tried to teach my boys as well. If you don’t follow your passion, you cannot possibly find what you are looking for. And I think in my case, that is why everything fell into place because I was always doing this. It was the same with photography. I had studied it as part of my training as a graphic designer and loved it. So, when I was working for L’Oreal at one of the Golden Scissor Award events, the photographer didn’t show up and luckily, I had my camera with me. I ended up taking the photos and L’Oreal was so blown away by my work that they asked me to take over the photography for future events. Again, it just happened that I was thrown into that side of my career. Something that was always my passion became a business and I tried never to lose that passion even in the business side of it.
DD: Looking forward, how would you like to focus your energies?
Gail: I am currently working on a life coaching book that I believe is quite unique. My goal is to have it published by the end of the year. The agency keeps ticking over, but that’s also taken an incredible shift. It used to be all retail, but now I am focusing on education and pharmaceuticals. The pharmaceuticals in particular have been fascinating because I have learned so much about diabetes and what people go through. At one of the events we put together a program where doctors were actually walking in patients shoes using AI. We are trying to bring empathy and observation back into the pharmaceutical world as it’s something that’s often missing.
Dune Daisy readers, we have this wonderful person in our community, so utilise our local talent. If you would like to learn more about yourself and begin a journey of self-discovery, contact Gail about her “Who am I?” workshop. Read on to find out more and check out her website: http://gailpetriecoaching.co.za
Know your Daisy, Gail:
- Born in Bloemfontein and grew up on a dairy farm in the Free State.
- Her happiest memories are connected to the farm and her two kids.
- Gail is an animal lover and has Scampi, a golden cocker spaniel (her sidekick), two cats and a very chatty parrot named Scruffy (often to be heard saying ‘goodbye’ in the background when Gail is on a call).
- Her favourite food is homemade pasta and making pizza with her boys.
“We see the world not as it is, but as we are.”
Albert Einstein
So, who am I?
The “Who am I” program is a coaching journey for discovering who you are and living your dream life.
A powerful practical approach for understanding how you function, learn and change.
Who am I?
How do I view the world?
By taking an honest and detailed look at the story you have been writing about your life, at both the good and bad decisions, strengths, wishes and dreams, and regrets, you will open the door to understanding “Who am I?”
Discover the lens you view the world through and the story you are writing. Are you living into limiting beliefs? Acknowledge what has worked for you and feels right, as well as things that haven’t gone as well and leave you with heaviness and sadness.
This is a journey to discovery of self.